Manual failure of reverse

[sly-fox54]

I have a 2016 comfort, nav, abs model. The reverse quit working and took to local shop where mechanic preformed diagnostic and ruled out any electrical problems. Determined mechanical problems with actuator claims only way to repair issue is to pull motor and transmission resulting in twenty plus hours of labor thus costing almost what the bike is worth. Bike only 59,000 miles. Any suggestions or clues welcomed!

[Techdude2000]

The only reason the motor would have to be pulled is if something inside broke or came loose. The actuator and cables can be replaced without all that trouble. Does this mechanic have a copy of the correct Honda Service manual for your model year? I have never heard of anything breaking in the reverse system other than the reverse idler gear getting broken when an inexperienced person changed the starter incorrectly and broke the gear.

[GoldWingrGreg]

Is this a trike ??? Was the starter replaced ??? With the engine running, and when reverse is turned on, and the starter button pushed, can you hear the starter spin ???

[sly-fox54]

It is not a trike and the starter has not been replaced. As for hearing the starter when placed in reverse I can’t say. Hopefully the mechanic that did the diagnostic has the appropriate manual as he’s at a Honda certified shop.

[Techdude2000]

It is not a trike and the starter has not been replaced. As for hearing the starter when placed in reverse I can’t say. Hopefully the mechanic that did the diagnostic has the appropriate manual as he’s at a Honda certified shop.

Ok, I’m wondering what he thinks is broken. If he pulls the engine, it’s going to be expensive. I would get a second opinion. What are the exact symptoms when you try reverse?

[sly-fox54]

I backed out of my garage using the reverse as always. Traveled 12 miles to the YMCA and put bike in neutral pushed reverse button in and hit the starter button and I heard aloud click the reverse light on the dash blinked and then stayed on. I shutdown the engine and then restarted. Neutral light on dash was lit and again pushed reverse button, hit starter button and same thing happened. After that I turned off the bike and didn’t try anymore as I was afraid that it might lock in reverse and not be able to move bike at all. I’m still able to ride the bike but I’m a little short of stature so I miss the reverse terribly. Rest of bike in great shape and have added a great deal of accessories to make it a great ride.

[Techdude2000]

I backed out of my garage using the reverse as always. Traveled 12 miles to the YMCA and put bike in neutral pushed reverse button in and hit the starter button and I heard aloud click the reverse light on the dash blinked and then stayed on. I shutdown the engine and then restarted. Neutral light on dash was lit and again pushed reverse button, hit starter button and same thing happened. After that I turned off the bike and didn’t try anymore as I was afraid that it might lock in reverse and not be able to move bike at all. I’m still able to ride the bike but I’m a little short of stature so I miss the reverse terribly. Rest of bike in great shape and have added a great deal of accessories to make it a great ride.

So, the last time you hit the reverse, did you get a solid R light on the dash before you hit the starter button to back up? If you engage the reverse button now, do you get a solid R light on the dash or does it blink?

[sly-fox54]

When I engage the R button the light blinks on the dash and stays blinking even after I disengage the R button. I turn off the key and stop the engine then restart the bike and the R light is off until I push the R button again.

[Techdude2000]

When I engage the R button the light blinks on the dash and stays blinking even after I disengage the R button. I turn off the key and stop the engine then restart the bike and the R light is off until I push the R button again.

This sounds like your reverse actuator has failed or locked up. It can be changed without removing the engine. It’s mounted up front behind the black upper cowl on the top of the engine and the cables run down the right side to the rear of the engine. No reason to pull the engine to change it or adjust it.

[sly-fox54]

I believe that you are correct in your analysis. I have a factory manual and I‘ve been studying it and I think I could tackle it myself. So I found an actuator for around $225 so that might not be so expensive to repair. Have you ever replaced one before?

[GoldWingrGreg]

If I recall, here at JustWings, everytime we've gone to replace the reverse actuator, we think we can replace it by working from the front, only to relize that removing the shelter, fuel tank, and air box is much faster. Be sure to have 4 of part #1. As a side note, not that your actuator is not bad, but because its a 2016, a bad actuator being that young would be unusual. Before ever starting such repair, and because some made in Japan have frozen turn-buckels, be sure your cable turn buckeles are not seized. Sometime a cable need replaced too, and is easiest to replace it with a new actuator. https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/hon ... t-actuator

[Techdude2000]

I believe that you are correct in your analysis. I have a factory manual and I‘ve been studying it and I think I could tackle it myself. So I found an actuator for around $225 so that might not be so expensive to repair. Have you ever replaced one before?

Ok, yes, and I can’t say it was fun, but it’s not hard as long as you take lots of pics so you have a reference to get everything back where it should be during reassembly. Before we jump into all of that. You should perform the tests in the service manual that will help narrow down the culprit, at one point it runs the actuator motor with your battery and jumper wires. It’s not hard to do, just follow the steps carefully. If it tests bad, then you will need to remove the shelter and air box along with raising the gas tank up in the front enough to reach the air box rear hoses. By the way, if you end up needing it, you can get it for less at Mrcycles, $149. I agree with Greg, check the condition of the cable adjusters, they need to be functional.

[sly-fox54]

Thanks tech dude and Greg for all your help with technical and pricing information. I’ll do the diagnostics as per manual and the service tech locally said the cables and actuator needed to be replaced as well so I’m pretty sure cables and actuator have failed. Yes whether the cables are bad or not I will replace them since I’m in that deep. So wish me luck!!!

[Techdude2000]

Thanks tech dude and Greg for all your help with technical and pricing information. I’ll do the diagnostics as per manual and the service tech locally said the cables and actuator needed to be replaced as well so I’m pretty sure cables and actuator have failed. Yes whether the cables are bad or not I will replace them since I’m in that deep. So wish me luck!!!

Make sure that if the actuator tests bad and you order the cables and it, double check the cables for the correct part numbers and match them up to the original ones on the actuator before disconnecting them. I disconnected the cables at the rear of the engine and left them connected to the actuator until I pulled it off from the front. Then I matched each cable to its replacement and made a note of how many threads were showing at the actuator mount for each cable then made sure the new one was mounted exactly like the old one. Let us know how your testing goes, there’s a few more tips about getting the cables rigged in the rear mechanics if the time comes.

[sly-fox54]

Thanks so much for your tips and help. I am still studying the testing scenarios and seeing what all needs to come off just to get to the actuator. I’m scheduled to leave for Alaska at the end of the month so I’m not sure I’ll get to it before I leave. However, after I get back I’ll have all winter to tear into it but I’d really like to get it done asap! I pretty well ride here all winter crazy as I am!!