Turn signal switch spring replacement

[Asphaltmaniac]

Not a total bolt by bolt DIY post. The turn signal spring in my 06 1800 has broken twice now. The 1st time I was flush with cash and lazy so just bought a new switch cluster $360 or thereabouts. Some years and many many miles go by and the spring breaks again. Sloppy switch wont return to neutral. Not buying a new switch cluster this time. So crack er open and end up cannibalizing a few ball point springs and we are back in action. It works and returns to neutral but feels mushy.

Fast forward 15 months and there a thread in here about a faulty cruise control switch that wont pop back out or something like that. I make a comment and I hear back from the OP and he has extra springs that I can have, and sends them along and wont take a $$ for them or the shipping. Thank you again Mike!!

Springs are from a Co called WB Jones spring co. The one I ended up using that Mike sent is C04-016-018. I dont have my old stock spring so cant comment on if this replacement is the same diameter or length. It does however work, if maybe a touch heavier then I remember the stock spring feeling. I'm just glad to get rid of that mushy switch feeling.

So in the photo there are 3 outer screws.

Take them out and then lift the switch assembly SLIGHTLY up using needle nose pliers by the 3 sided plastic piece then tip the copper end up. look closely and you can see it fits in a groove. Sorry but this assembly does not move very far. But far enough to get er done. You see the one check ball but there's another up against the base of the switch held firm by the spring. Once the busted spring is out. slide in the new, get that copper bit slid back on and lower the whole thing back into it cradle.

Steady hands and patience of a saint gets er done.

[GoldWingrGreg]

Here at JustWing, especially because the left hand switch assembly is still available, would recommend replacing the switch assembly.

[Asphaltmaniac]

Some times you have to shell out for an entirely new piece especially if your not aware of an alternative.
But if I can do it anybody can do it.

[Asphaltmaniac]

Here at JustWing, especially because the left hand switch assembly is still available, would recommend replacing the switch assembly.

I understand that you as a repair facility may not want to just do a small repair, for whatever reason. But its a pretty quick fix what I did. Much faster and way more economical (I hate using the word cheap) than replacing the entire switch. As you know there is a lot that needs to be removed for switch replacement. And its in everybody's best interest who takes that route to be sure they are routing those switch wires absolutely the correct way down and around the handlebars and through their proper stays.

I'm not replacing an entire harness because I find a broken or corroded wire either.

[GoldWingrGreg]

I understand that you as a repair facility may not want to just do a small repair, for whatever reason. But its a pretty quick fix what I did. Much faster and way more economical (I hate using the word cheap) than replacing the entire switch. As you know there is a lot that needs to be removed for switch replacement. And its in everybody's best interest who takes that route to be sure they are routing those switch wires absolutely the correct way down and around the handlebars and through their proper stays.

I'm not replacing an entire harness because I find a broken or corroded wire either.

DIYr's of coarse can do whatever they want. However, in the professional world, professionals have to think a little different. For example, after doing like your doing one day, we relised that the chance of loosing a switch brush, or spring is to great, and if that happened, we would then owe a customer a new switch assembly. Also, as stated above, that switch assembly will not be available forever, and your switch assembly is beginning to have issues. When another switch fails in the assembly, and possibly then you know a switch assembly is then needed, they maybe discontinued.

[Terry D]

I ended up replacing the panel that houses the flasher and running light switches, etc. on my 2005. But before I did I googled and found a lighted switch and slightly enlarged the square and replaced a switch that I had lost spring when it popped out disappearing just about anywhere. I still have that panel and was thinking of replacing the switches with toggle switches. One switch would have to be a double throw for the hazzards and the running lights be a simple single throw and the shock up and down be momentary 2-way toggle. It would not be all that hard to cut a piece of plastic, glue it to cover the inside of the switch slots and then solder the existing wires to a new panel of switches.

[CapeCrusader]

On the 2010 GL1800, I found that the spring had broken into 4 pieces. the end coils had probably broken off earlier (years?), leaving 6 coils in the middle. That was still functional, but then it finally fatigued right in the middle, and the two main pieces coiled into one another making for a 1/2 long double spring, which did nothing.
In any case, I skewered the 4 pcs on a toothpick and measured length with dial calipers at
L = 0.312"
O.D. = 0.143"
Wire Dia = 0.020"
7-8 active coils, 9 total
Material is probably 316 stainless or equivalent.

I found a Century Spring p/n 65245S that is close
with .146" OD, Free lgth .311", wire dia .02", ID .106 with 7.5 coils
$25 min order, + ship ran about $38 for 3 springs

The bearing ball that retains the spring and rides on the switchblock is 0.158" (4 mm), if that disappears into the lost parts parallel universe.