Some of you may know I am doing a rebuild of Black Velvet. It has been a LEARNING experience.
One of the projects was to replace my old brake lines with braided SS ones. My front brake had become quite squishy after replacing pads and I figured,,'what the hay, she has 80,000 miles on her
those Brake lines need to be changed,,,..(what a job),, I finally got um done and it was time to bleed the brakes.. I found out that these calipers had a nasty habit of having a bobble at the bleeder
which hides out while bleeding. I know because it happened with the new brake line. I bled the front as always,,and still SQUISHY, ,, I removed a caliper bolt, tilted it up so bleeder was almost vertical and bled um again,,I now have a FIST FULL of brake,,Thanks DW.
Bleeding Front brake.
- velvetrider
- Posts: 176
- Joined: Sun Oct 13, 2013 10:38 am
- Location: Mooresville, North Carolina
- Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100 Interstate
- WingAdmin
- Site Admin
- Posts: 23895
- Joined: Fri Oct 03, 2008 4:16 pm
- Location: Strongsville, OH
- Motorcycle: 2000 GL1500 SE
1982 GL1100A Aspencade (sold)
1989 PC800 (sold)
1998 XV250 Virago (sold)
2012 Suzuki Burgman 400 (wife's!)
2007 Aspen Sentry Trailer - Contact:
Re: Bleeding Front brake.
It's a good trick. I usually do the same thing - turn the steering so that the bleeder is as far up as possible (i.e. turn steering all the way left to bleed the right one, and vice versa).
-
- Posts: 6
- Joined: Mon Mar 28, 2016 12:01 am
- Location: Weston super Mare, Avon, UK.
- Motorcycle: 1987 GL1200 IH INTERSTATE
Re: Bleeding Front brake.
Hi velvetrider and community. I know this post is outdated for your post but wanted to add my bit.
New to this forum and joys of winging.
Recently replaced front left line with a SS one. I will post on that point elsewhere.
This is more for the less familiar regarding a full line replacement (definitely a recommended procedure).
For those of us not fortunate enough to have a vacuum system to hand and do it the old school way do not be alarmed at the time it takes to get the fluid through.
Also do not be alarmed at what appears to be emerging in the reservoir from the bottom. It is not an amoeba, worm or stringy cotton wool.
The 200+ 'pumps' needed to push fluid through creates a little 'mushroom' of teeny bubbles, that freaked me out a little at first until I realised what it was.
Looked like some gooey unwanted stuff and I was thinking .. oh no rebuild kit needed.
Once the line is 'charged' with fluid, the proper process can start and it all passes through nicely with several refills of the reservoir to make sure the line is flushed fully.
As always with any of these procedures, watch the levels closely and monitor brake behaviour.
After all poor pulling is annoying, poor braking is not recommended .. ever.. lol.
New to this forum and joys of winging.
Recently replaced front left line with a SS one. I will post on that point elsewhere.
This is more for the less familiar regarding a full line replacement (definitely a recommended procedure).
For those of us not fortunate enough to have a vacuum system to hand and do it the old school way do not be alarmed at the time it takes to get the fluid through.
Also do not be alarmed at what appears to be emerging in the reservoir from the bottom. It is not an amoeba, worm or stringy cotton wool.
The 200+ 'pumps' needed to push fluid through creates a little 'mushroom' of teeny bubbles, that freaked me out a little at first until I realised what it was.
Looked like some gooey unwanted stuff and I was thinking .. oh no rebuild kit needed.
Once the line is 'charged' with fluid, the proper process can start and it all passes through nicely with several refills of the reservoir to make sure the line is flushed fully.
As always with any of these procedures, watch the levels closely and monitor brake behaviour.
After all poor pulling is annoying, poor braking is not recommended .. ever.. lol.