trailer lghts not working


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steve06wing
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trailer lghts not working

Post by steve06wing » Sun Aug 12, 2018 4:02 pm



No trailer lights when plugged into gl1800. If i hook the trailer up to a power source all lights work. I checked all the fuses on bike there all ok.
What do i start looking at next? Forgot to say trailer lights worked 2 weeks ago when i used it. Thanks for any help in advanced



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Wilcoy02
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Re: trailer lghts not working

Post by Wilcoy02 » Sun Aug 12, 2018 5:00 pm

Is the trailer hitched to the bike? Some need to be hitched for a good ground.

steve06wing
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Re: trailer lghts not working

Post by steve06wing » Sun Aug 12, 2018 6:02 pm

Trailer was on bike. Found a 30 amp fuse blown under the seat everything works now just have to figure out why the fuse went

FM-USA
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Re: trailer lghts not working

Post by FM-USA » Mon Aug 13, 2018 6:53 pm

steve06wing wrote:
Sun Aug 12, 2018 6:02 pm
Trailer was on bike. Found a 30 amp fuse blown under the seat everything works now just have to figure out why the fuse went
Accidental short while wiring the trailer wires.

Fuse was weak & ready to go. Any extra load, it's a gonner.
SUGGESTION: IF you don't have a Amp meter... put a 25 Amp fuse in it and test it. If the 25 blows, you're near or at that circuits load limit.

.

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themainviking
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Re: trailer lghts not working

Post by themainviking » Tue Aug 14, 2018 6:36 am

This is the reason for trailer wiring isolators. With one of them, you draw power for your trailer lights directly from the battery and only signal through your bikes wiring and fuses. You can get one here:

https://cyclemax.com/inc/sdetail/gl1800 ... ess/206791
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Alan_Hepburn
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Re: trailer lghts not working

Post by Alan_Hepburn » Tue Aug 14, 2018 2:11 pm

FM-USA wrote:
Mon Aug 13, 2018 6:53 pm

SUGGESTION: IF you don't have a Amp meter... put a 25 Amp fuse in it and test it. If the 25 blows, you're near or at that circuits load limit.
Harbor Freight has a nice little tool for testing current draw: circuit tester - you remove the fuse in question (up to 30A) and plug this tool into the fuse block, then place the just-removed fuse into the tool (to protect the circuit). It will show how much current is flowing in the circuit...
Alan Hepburn - San Jose, Ca
1994 GL1500SE with a California Sidecar

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Re: trailer lghts not working

Post by FM-USA » Tue Aug 14, 2018 2:55 pm

I have several electrical meters & testers.
My post was for those who don't have said equipment and how to check the system in a minimalistic manor.

.

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Alan_Hepburn
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Re: trailer lghts not working

Post by Alan_Hepburn » Tue Aug 14, 2018 5:05 pm

...and my post was a suggestion for anybody reading this, including the OP, for a reasonably priced, easy to use, tool - I figured you would already have a shop full of tools! :D
Alan Hepburn - San Jose, Ca
1994 GL1500SE with a California Sidecar

FM-USA
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Re: trailer lghts not working

Post by FM-USA » Tue Aug 14, 2018 5:56 pm

Uuuuuh yaaa . . .. . .

.

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AZgl1800
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Re: trailer lghts not working

Post by AZgl1800 » Tue Aug 14, 2018 6:51 pm

Alan_Hepburn wrote:
Tue Aug 14, 2018 2:11 pm

Harbor Freight has a nice little tool for testing current draw: circuit tester - you remove the fuse in question (up to 30A) and plug this tool into the fuse block, then place the just-removed fuse into the tool (to protect the circuit). It will show how much current is flowing in the circuit...
when I saw that tool, I took it home, right then..
~John

topgun
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Re: trailer lghts not working

Post by topgun » Sat Aug 18, 2018 5:57 pm

Just don't use the harbor freight fuses.

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Re: trailer lghts not working

Post by FM-USA » Sat Aug 18, 2018 6:07 pm

topgun wrote:
Sat Aug 18, 2018 5:57 pm
Just don't use the harbor freight fuses.
DITTOES!!!+!
I nearly lost my fuse box from those THIN blades not making solid contact.
JUST BE SURE they're snug.
Loose fit = poor contact = heat.

BUT through my situation you'll be glad to know the fuse box will withstand some heat.

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Re: trailer lghts not working

Post by topgun » Sat Aug 18, 2018 8:35 pm

Actually was thinking about a TSB GM had a few years back; quoting here....

General Motors has become aware of a fuse recall by Harbor Freight Tools/Storehouse for a variety of aftermarket fuses. In two cases, these fuses have not provided protection for the wiring system of the vehicles they were customer installed in. Upon testing the 15 amp version, it was found that the fuse still would not “open” when shorted directly across the battery terminals.

Techdude2000
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Re: trailer lghts not working

Post by Techdude2000 » Wed Aug 22, 2018 10:56 am

topgun wrote:
Sat Aug 18, 2018 8:35 pm
Actually was thinking about a TSB GM had a few years back; quoting here....

General Motors has become aware of a fuse recall by Harbor Freight Tools/Storehouse for a variety of aftermarket fuses. In two cases, these fuses have not provided protection for the wiring system of the vehicles they were customer installed in. Upon testing the 15 amp version, it was found that the fuse still would not “open” when shorted directly across the battery terminals.
Holy crap! That would make some smoke in a circuit.

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themainviking
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Re: trailer lghts not working

Post by themainviking » Wed Aug 22, 2018 4:36 pm

Techdude2000 wrote:
Wed Aug 22, 2018 10:56 am

Holy crap! That would make some smoke in a circuit.
Yup, and then it would all get out and the circuit would not work anymore. :lol:
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wiretician
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Re: trailer lghts not working

Post by wiretician » Sun Sep 16, 2018 1:57 pm

Late chime in on this, but from extensive troubleshooting as an electrician, sometimes fuses just blow. Sometimes from being of poor quality, or built in defects. Loose connections will cause heat or spikes in current. But then fuses are like light bulbs, they can only go so long getting hot and cold, over and over till they pop. I've seem where multiple things were added to a circuit and find that a circuit breaker or even fuses will be so hot that you can't touch it. Put an Ammeter on it, to find that it is carrying 27 amps on a 20 amp breaker. This happens when a lot of items are turned on one at a time bringing the load up slowly. Fuses and breakers are intended to trip on sudden spikes. They will hold for long periods above their rated loads, but not forever. Unfortunately not before something catches on fire. If what blew the 30 amp fuse isn't obvious (like an arcing or black spot), you might look at all of what is on the fuse and try to determine what the load is. Maybe move a few things around to spread the load out. You might have to add another fuse block to spread the load to. And by the way it is the smoke that makes everything work, when you let the smoke out, you can't put it back. posting.php?mode=reply&f=7&t=44805#


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