Introduction + GL1500 Project

[tobeerortobike]

Hi all,

New to the forum - this is my first post.

Went and picked up my first GoldWing last night. She's a 1989 GL1500 with 105k miles in need of some TLC. Drove about an hour north with a buddy and rode the bike home. What a motorcycle. Blown away by how smooth it rides and how comfortable it is sitting at 70+ mph. I'm posting here to both introduce myself and look for some advice on getting this bike back up to 100%.

The biggest current issue is the bike will bog down and stall at idle speed. If I hold just a bit of pressure on the throttle it will run pretty smoothly around 1k rpm, but if I let it go all the way for a second, the bike dies. I have to hold the throttle open partially to get the bike to start back up, which to me indicates the bike is running too rich and flooding. It will cold start fine with some choke + holding the throttle. Above 1k RPM the bike runs fine, plenty of power, and no real hiccups. The cruise control lights come on and seem to function, but the cruise control itself is nonfunctional. My current hunch is that it's related to the 'sticky' throttle. I can pull the throttle open fine, but it won't snap back shut on it's own. I have to twist it back towards the closed position in order to ease off the throttle. Currently planning to investigate both ends of the throttle cables to see if one of the two is snapped or has come loose. After taking everything apart, I'll lube all of the cables and re-assemble. I'm also planning on checking the choke cable, as it feels like I can't fully close the choke from the handlebar, but I can't tell if the choke switch is working as designed or stuck partially open. See image below for what I am looking at.

Planning to tear into the bike today after work. Let me know if there is anything specific I should look for. Going to start with fixing the idle, then will move to maintenance. At this mileage I plan on doing pretty much every maintenance item for these bikes, so please let me know if there is anything specific to these bikes I should look to do.

Here's my current maintenance list:
Engine Oil + Filter
Final Drive Oil
Coolant Flush
Timing Belt
Air Filter
Spark Plugs
SeaFoam/Potentially pulling + cleaning the carburetors
Checking front/rear Suspension
Bleeding front + rear brakes
Checking brake pad life + rotor thickness


Once checking all of that off, I hope to fix up the other small problems I've noticed so far:
Inoperative cruise control
Inoperative radio tuning switch
Pulling off aftermarket speakers added by previous owner (sketch wiring + nonfunctional)
Inoperative Front Right Running light (?)

Wow, seems like a lot bigger project now that I write it all out haha. I've worked on cars my whole life, relatively new to bikes, been wrenching on my project bikes for a little over a year now. Got an '85 Kawasaki ZN1100 and a '82 Honda GL500 back on the road. All that to say, I'm competent mechanically but will definitely need some coaching as these bikes are unlike anything I have ever worked on. Let me know if there is anything I might be missing, or some best practices I might not be aware of.

Cheers!

[John K]

Welcome to the forum

Don't forget to change clutch fluid also
Brake & clutch fluids should be changed every 2 years afterwards
Don't get any of the fluid on any plastic parts as it destroys plastic

Replace the Cruise filter and sub filter
Replace fuel filter and while in that area, check the fuel petcock diaphragm. Even a small hole will cause problems

There are lots of helpful people on here, lots of information just type in the topic box what you are looking for and WingAdmin has done an excellent job of maintenance videos.
Make sure you enter the monthly contest

Best of luck
Take Care

[tobeerortobike]

Thanks, I'll add cruise and sub filters to my to-do list, same with the clutch fluid. Didn't know those filters existed, so thanks for the heads up.

Made some progress today, got the fairings and radio off to get the throttle mechanism. after some fiddling with the barrel adjuster at the handlebars and adding a washer to the spring mechanism, I was able to get the throttle to snap back closed on it's own. I won't know if this solved my idling issue until I install the new air filters and spark plugs and button everything back up enough to run, but somehow I doubt this is my entire issue.

Definitely a little sluggish, and I will still need to lube the cables. Is there a trick to getting the cables loose at the handlebar? I fiddled with it for probably close to 30 minutes, and couldn't work them loose. I can't really figure out a way to get lube into the cables with them still attached to the handlebar throttle mechanism. I have the foam grips, and am unsure how to remove them. Is it heat + compressed air like on a bicycle? Or is there a trick to that as well?


I tried looking through the guides on this blog, but can't seem to find more detail beyond "Unscrew both throttle and idle cables from switch housing". Most likely user error on my part, but feeling stuck in that department. I'm planning to pursue cruise control troubleshooting while the bikes apart, but won't try to tackle that just yet. Fuel filter looks rough, have a new one on order.

That's about all my updates for today. Hopefully I'll get to changing the spark plugs tomorrow or the next day. Doesn't seem like a big job once the plastic is removed. I'll check the petcock diaphragm then as well.

I also figured out how to work those aftermarket speakers the previous owner had installed. I found a toggle switch in the left compartment, after which I heard a beep and found the speakers on bluetooth! Hooked up to my phone and played music loud and clear. Might have to keep them after all. Wiring seems clean enough, and it's nice to have the bluetooth option.

That's all from me for now. I'll update as I work on the bike. As always any and all advice is welcome, even if it's critical.

Cheers!

[Andy Cote]

Welcome to the forum.

Nice bike and good plan forward. All the information you need is on this site. You should still have a service manual, however.

When I first had my GL1500, I needed to turn the idle up. Once I did routine maintenance as you have already planned, she smoothed out and I was able to turn it back down. The adjustment knob is next to the fuel filler neck. A dose of fuel cleaner should be an early action. Seafoam, Techron, Marvel's, Startron, Berryman, etc.

Common for the choke cable to move harder as you get to full choke.

[John K]

I apologize I should have said this in my previous post

Go to the " Home " page
Click on " How To Articles "
Then go down to " GL1500 DIY Articles " click on it
Lots of information with pictures in that section

I believe " How to replace your throttle cables " is one of many that will help you with your project

As Andy Cote stated a Honda Service Manual would be a great tool to have

Best of luck

[tobeerortobike]

Finally got the throttle cables off and lubed. I had to loosen both cables at the carburetor end to get the cables off at the grips. Choke fully engages and disengages, just feels a bit 'loose' fully disengaged.

Found several bolts that were just missing on the rear mount that holds up the radio/cassette. Any idea of where I can find the specs or replacement fittings for these? I checked some parts diagrams on partzilla, but couldn't quite find what I was looking for. I might just end up trying the spare fittings I have lying around until something fits, but I'd like something vaguely OEM.

Also pulled the plugs. Not the most experienced with reading plugs, anything here that I should be aware of? They seem fouled to me.

Left

Right

Also checked the petcock while I was in there. Diaphragm looks intact, and spring was in good condition.

Parts shipment should be coming in tomorrow. Will probably start with plugs and filters, and see if my idle issue has improved. Might try messing with the idle setting if that hasn't helped. Then belts, fluids, and bleeding everything hydraulic.

Any thoughts on what might be up with the cruise control? The lights seem to work as they should but the cruise control wouldn't properly activate. I haven't really dived into troubleshooting (I think I have a flowchart in my manual), but was just curious if there were any common or easy fixes I could try while everything's apart.

Cheers!

[Andy Cote]

Lever switches are the most likely issue with cruise control, especially with age. Pull each lever slowly and you should here two clicks. One switch on each side is there to deactivate the cruise. Worn lever bushings or aftermarket levers create slop preventing the levers from fully returning to the forward position. Try pushing forward on the levers while underway and see if that helps. The switches are not adjustable. You can replace the bushings and/or levers. If that doesn't work, you can glue thin shims on the pad the activates that switches.

If not the lever, you can remove the switches, check for continuity or jumper them out of the circuit. Or just replace them.

There is also a common issue with lag in the cruise engaging. There is a How-To thread on adjusting the system to remove the lag.

[John K]

I looked at Cyclemax website at OEM parts and you are right about bolts sizes not being specific

May I suggest looking in " Goldwing Vendors " on this forum ( just search for 1500 stuff )
I was in Florida a couple years ago and visited a vendor from page 3 called Motoplus Parts and bought some items from Jay
Nice guy, lots of used parts, hopefully the latest hurricane didn't hurt him, his family or his business

With all the auto salvage yards on Rt 411 north of Atlanta there has to be a motorcycle salvage yard close by. I would call a few and ask

The hole that was in my fuel petcock was SMALL, I had to use a magnifying glass to find it, but then again my eyes are old from driving 14 hours at a time, day & night for almost 30 years

Again best of luck

[Rambozo]

The hole that was in my fuel petcock was SMALL, I had to use a magnifying glass to find it, but then again my eyes are old from driving 14 hours at a time, day & night for almost 30 years.

Yup, best to check the petcock and most other vacuum devices with a hand vacuum pump to see if they hold vacuum. Leaks are not always in a place you can see.

[tobeerortobike]

Hi all,

Just sharing some updates on my progress. Good thoughts on the petcock - I'll get a vacuum gauge and double check that it's functioning as it should.

All of the parts I ordered came in today, so finally got to get some new parts on the bike. Changed out the plugs, sub and cruise filters, as well as the main air filter and the fuel filter. Fuel filter was definitely in need of replacing.

After buttoning up the air filter housing, I went to start the bike. My first D'oh moment came when I realized that the 'off' position for the choke lever is UP not DOWN. I guess the bike was running badly enough when I first bought it that I didn't realize. That explains a lot of 'running rich' behavior the bike was exhibiting when I picked it up. Oh well.

The good news is that I realized this by starting the bike in what I thought was 'full' choke, and it cranked right away. Lowering the lever raised the RPMs, and I finally checked the manual and made the connection. Once I had the choke fully off, the bike settled into an Idle. I revved the engine a few times, and the bike died as soon as the RPMs came down. Then it wouldn't start. I had to shift the throttle open slightly, and then the bike started and idled happily. See the video linked below for a brief example of what the problem looks like.

[YouTube][/YouTube]

I've convinced myself that the idle is just set too low - so when the throttle snaps back to it's 'idle' position, it's closing the butterfly valves too tightly to allow the engine to idle. I tried making some adjustments using the idle adjustment screw, but moving it in either direction didn't seem to change the behavior at all. I understand the bike needs to be warm for these adjustments to be accurate, but I only adjusted the screw after letting the bike idle for about 5 minutes.

My current plan is to do the timing belts over the next couple days, and then take the bike on a longer ride to get it fully up to temperature and then try adjusting the idle again. I guess the washer I added to the throttle spring could be adding to the problem - but the bike was behaving like this before, so I doubt it. Let me know if y'all have other ideas, or if you agree with what I'm thinking.

Cheers!

[Rambozo]

When you say you adjusted the idle speed screw but nothing happened, I just want to make sure you are talking about the idle adjust knob that is in your photo. As long as the choke is fully off, you should get a change in speed right away from this.

[tobeerortobike]

Yes, that is the knob I was turning. Do you think it could be somehow disconnected or malfunctioning? On my other bikes you only need a half turn or so to make a real difference in idle - is that the case with these bikes as well? Or should I give it a few full turns 'up' and see what happens?

Am I correct in thinking that turning the knob clockwise should raise the idle?

Thanks for your help.

[tobeerortobike]

UPDATE:

I cranked the idle knob clockwise until the idle changed. That fixed it. It was WAY out of spec. I think it was 5 or 6 full turns of the knob until I felt the engine respond at all. I'm now able to close the throttle fully. The bike idles at ~800rpm after adjusting. Rev's well and starts right away with no choke.

Is the no choke start normal for these bikes? It's hovering around the mid 50's low 60's in Atlanta and none of my other bikes start quickly without some choke. On the Goldwing, it feels like I just have to tap the button and starts right up.

Of course this could change with getting the bike up to proper operating temp and further adjusting the idle speed, just something I was thinking on.

[Rambozo]

I don't need any choke until it's in the 50's and even then, I just need the higher idle, not the enrichment.

[tobeerortobike]

Hi all,

Some updates from this weekend. I changed the timing belts with some buddies, and got all fresh fluids in the bike. I found the bolts to re-mount the stereo bracket in the trunk side pocket. Took me a while to get all the body panels back on, but I was far enough through my to-do list that I felt comfortable taking the bike for it's first longer ride. Took a Sunday afternoon ride up to the mountains and back, and the bike did great. Started every time, brakes and suspension feel great and cruises at 70 no problem.

A whining/rattle noise from the dashboard popped up on a shorter test ride earlier in the weekend. The speedo starting jumping with the noise, so I assumed the speedo cable was to blame. Took the cable off, took me much longer than expected - the whole dash had to come apart for me to get to the cable. Cleaned and lubed the cable then re-assembled. The noise reoccurred after lubing, but was intermittent and eventually went away at the end of my ride (~5 hours or so). The noise didn't appear at all below 60 mph or so, but would suddenly start at around 65mph and persist until I slowed down to a stop. Like I said, it went away at the end of the ride so I'm not terribly worried about it. I will order a new cable next time I plan to take the dash apart.

There is also a rattle at slow speed - it sounds almost like a subwoofer rattling cheap plastic. I've attributed it to the 'dust cover' on the final drive. Upon investigation, it was loose. I checked a parts diagram and saw that there is supposed to be a bolt holding on the cover. I'll be removing the rear wheel to change the back tire in the near future, current plan is to order a new cover and install when I have the rear wheel off.

I also found a hose that came loose and was hanging below the bike. I investigated best I could, but couldn't find anything that it could have attached to. It doesn't seem to have affected rideability of the bike at all, so I'm not too worried about it, but would like some advice if anyone has any ideas of what the hose could run to. It's blocked at the end so I assuming it's a vacuum dead-end, but it is a bit confusing as to why it's routed to the bottom of the bike. See picture below.

Other than those rattles, the bike rides great. The air pressure 'check' seems to work correctly, PSI is steady at 5. Is the number I'm seeing on the screen the psi for the front or rear suspension? The cruise control wants to work. At 35 or 40mph it works great, holds speed and even keeps speed up hills. However, at 55 mph + where I would actually want to use cruise, it doesn't quite hold speed. It does hold the throttle, the lights come on, and it doesn't decelerate as fast as if I had just let go of the throttle - but the speed slowly falls, and I can't get it to raise even when pressing the accelerate button.

All in all, very happy with where bike is currently. Some tidying up work needs to be done, mainly: the vents I'm missing, replacing the final drive dust cover, further troubleshooting the cruise control and replacing the front right running light. Overall the bike feels very mechanically sound and rides very well. Recommendations for rear tires are welcome as well.

Thanks for y'alls help and advice getting the bike back on the road, I will update here as I continue to tinker with the bike.

[Rambozo]

That is a drain line. there are a couple, but they are not supposed to hang out that far. It is described in either the service or owner's manual. I think that one is from an oil separator. There is also one from the fuel overflow tray, carb overflows, battery vent tube, maybe some I am forgetting as well.

There is a maintenance item where you uncap that and drain out any accumulated oil periodically.

[John K]

Spray those rubber grommets that hold the side panels on to the frame to keep them soft
I spray a little silicone on them most every time I remove them for whatever reason

Keep the rear passenger's floorboards up when you don't have a passenger to help keep the panels from blowing away
Very difficult to find replacement panels

Better yet secure those panels to the frame with small straps with releases, see WingAdmin video or fish leaders, like I did
I used 15 inch leaders some day I may go a few inches longer
The hole I drilled was only big enough for the fish leader to fit thru

Best of luck

[tobeerortobike]

Good idea on the silicon for the rubber grommets.

Does that work to loosen up old rubber? Or is it more maintenance? I've got one or two grommets that are particularly stubborn - they take a lot of force to fit the panel and/or don't hold it particularly well. Haven't had anything come loose but I'll secure the side panels when I get a chance.

[Batman II]

Welcome to the forum

Definitely make certain that you can actuate your choke lever to the full open and full closed position. Then try running sea foam for a tank or two of fuel to clean out the carbs, especially if it has been sitting, like most have. Sea foam cleared/cleans my '89 GL1500 wing every spring, which seems to make the choke work like it should. When it's cold I use full choke until it fires up and then I back it off until it runs smoothly at a higher rpm for a minute or so. Then I open the throttle a bit while I close the choke; this helps to clear the carbs of the excess fuel so that that when I back off the throttle it will stay running. It seems that the choke circuit tends to run a bit rich.

There are two known cruise issues with this bike: slow to hold the speed when the cruise set button is pushed (Can take up to 10 seconds to hold the cruise speed before releasing the throttle), and maximum speed of 72-75 mph. The first issue can be resolved by taking the slack out of your cruise vacuum diaphragm cable slack adjustment. There are a couple of forums with specific details on these fixes, but once your carbs are cleaned out and working properly then tighten the slack from your cruise control vacuum diaphragm until you notice a slight rpm rise at idle, then back it off just a hair. This will make a night and day difference when you set your cruise control (Instantaneously set). The maximum cruise speed is changed by purchasing a yellow box from Australia; basically you'll tap into two wires under the back seat that count the ticks/speed going to the cruise control computer and the signal will go through the yellow box (you'll set some dip switches for the maximum speed that you want to set the cruise at) and the yellow box will change the amount of ticks that go to the computer. I used to have an issue when I rode I-90, to Sturgis and back each year, I have no issues any more. I haven't actually tested my max cruise set speed, but it should be roughly 90 mph, which I don't set it that high, but I didn't want to have a max to low as I did before.

My bike has been "Slightly" modified; it has all of the bells and whistles... Progressive springs, fork brace, timing trigger, cruise yellow box, additional LED lighting, aftermarket windshield with vent, upper and lower fairing air dams, pivot backrest, trunk and saddle bag accessories, lit flags, dual bad-boy air horns (Necessity), front and rear dash cams, and of coarse a trailer hitch...

Feel free to reach out to me any time; I like most enjoy sharing what I've done to my Wing and I really enjoy the ride and the big front fairing. My only real wish would have been that it would have had been a six speed for better mileage at modern day interstate speeds and that the radio system would be easier to integrate into a communication system (non-corded). I had a JVC corded helmet headset that connected to the radio and CB. My old cell phone had an audio jack...I purchased a corded cassette tape that I put into the radio and plugged into my old cell phone to play music tracks from for long trips... I now have a Cardo Packtalk Edge and a newer cell phone that no longer has an audio jack... It's tough to get old tech to work like you'd like with newer technology. Regardless, I love this bike, but parts are getting harder to obtain (babbitsonline or a cycle salvage yard have been my go toos). I wish you the best!

[agedbikeman]

Don't trust the throttle cables after they've been sticky, mine wer, I lubed them up ofte, til one day the opener one snapped at the twistgrip end, lucky I was near home and habd pliers with me.
Replace them asap, see my post on replacing throttle cables by agedbikeman.

What a pin if they snap in the middle of nowhere.

Enjoy your new ride

[radecal]

G'day from Australia.
Bit of info for the hard rubber bits.Track down some Oil of Wintergreen (genuine stuff not synthetic) and after you thoroughly clean any crap from the rubber bits, immerse them in a mixture of Isopropyl Alcohol (3 parts) to 1 part of Oil of Wintergreen for enough time to soften the rubber.
Varies but usually soaking for a few days works if in reasonable condition or a bit longer if really hard. Just keep checking.
I am in high ambient temperatures so used at room temp in a sealed container but very mild heat only may assist if you are in a cool climate.
Be careful if heating (should say warming!!!!) as you have alcohol in the brew!
Have saved some irreplaceable rubber bits this way.
If left in too long, there may be a slight swelling but left in air to dry, they will shrink back to normal in a couple of days.
Hope this helps