Changing rear brake pads on 202 GL1800A


Information and questions on GL1800 Goldwings (2001-2017)
  • Sponsored Links
Post Reply
mikwilfly
Posts: 6
Joined: Wed Jan 26, 2011 10:20 am
Motorcycle: 2002 GL1800A

Changing rear brake pads on 202 GL1800A

Post by mikwilfly » Thu Jul 12, 2012 2:45 pm



Reading the Honda Shop Manual there is not much in the way of details of how to change the rear brake pads on my 2002 GL1800A (ABS). It only shows a picture of removing the "pins" and being careful to get the tabs in the right place when reinstalling them. Does NOT mention or show removal of any parts like the right hand muffler or the rear wheel or even removal of the rear caliper for that matter.
Can I replace the brake pads without removing anything else besides those "Pins" and do it all while leaving the caliper attached to the bike? If this is true it should be really simple? I cannot see the "inside" pad on the rear with the caliper attached and doesn't seem like enough room to get the whole caliper off with the wheel still attached.
Any input will be appreciated.
Thx
Mike :roll:



Bouvier1
Posts: 106
Joined: Tue Jul 27, 2010 4:09 pm
Location: United Kingdom
Motorcycle: 2007 Gl 1800A

Re: Changing rear brake pads on 202 GL1800A

Post by Bouvier1 » Fri Jul 13, 2012 3:47 am

That is the way to replace them. Simple.
What you must do is remove the cap on the resevoir first (under the r/h cover) then using a screwdriver push the pads back away from the disc - this opens the pistons in order to put new pads in (if you don't you have difficulty trying to push the pistons back). Once done then remove the pin and the old pads will fall out. Replace the pads - outside first then inside as you need to put the pin through to hold the first pad. When you put the new pads in you will feel a bit of resistance when you align the hole up with the pin - don't worry as this shows that it is locked in at the top. Once on put the cap on the resevoir and pump the foot brake a couple of times. This should take 10mins at the most.
Same goes for the fronts, you should replace these at the same time.

mikwilfly
Posts: 6
Joined: Wed Jan 26, 2011 10:20 am
Motorcycle: 2002 GL1800A

Re: Changing rear brake pads on 202 GL1800A

Post by mikwilfly » Sat Jul 14, 2012 7:18 am

Great, thanks so much for the info. That makes sense but it seemed so simple I was afraid some steps were omitted and surely it couldn't be that easy. Good to know the muffler and wheel need not be removed.
Thank you for the quick response.
regards
Mike :D

fmcastro
Posts: 12
Joined: Wed Jan 06, 2010 3:00 pm
Location: Jupiter, FL
Motorcycle: 2002 GL1800

Re: Changing rear brake pads on 202 GL1800A

Post by fmcastro » Tue Aug 07, 2012 2:46 pm

While replacing the rear & front brake pads, is there a requirement to clean the caliper pistons before pushing them back in. Do the pistons have a dust boot? What about opening the bleeder on the caliper so as to not pump old fluid into the master cylinder?

mikwilfly
Posts: 6
Joined: Wed Jan 26, 2011 10:20 am
Motorcycle: 2002 GL1800A

Re: Changing rear brake pads on 202 GL1800A

Post by mikwilfly » Thu Aug 09, 2012 9:29 am

Opening the bleeder valve instead of pushing the fluid back up to and thru the reservoir makes good sense to me and would rather spill brake fluid on the floor than have run down painted parts under the M/cyl reservoir. Thanks for that I'll try it.
mike

Len
Posts: 27
Joined: Tue Jul 28, 2009 11:16 am
Location: Helotes, TX
Motorcycle: 2012 Goldwing Airbag

Re: Changing rear brake pads on 202 GL1800A

Post by Len » Thu Aug 09, 2012 7:43 pm

I always try to clean the pistons before they are pressed back into the calipers. While the old pads are removed, slide the caliper from side to side to check for smooth movement. If the calipers don't slide freely, remove them from the mounting and lube the slide pins.

mikwilfly
Posts: 6
Joined: Wed Jan 26, 2011 10:20 am
Motorcycle: 2002 GL1800A

Re: Changing rear brake pads on 202 GL1800A

Post by mikwilfly » Fri Aug 10, 2012 9:06 am

I will do that, thanks. I have postponed replacing the pads for a month or so as when I looked again they were still at 50% so not as big a hurry as I thought. But I plan on doing it the next time that it is convenient. Appreciate all the good advise, guys. :D
Mike
Attachments







User avatar
FlyBoy2121
Posts: 329
Joined: Thu Sep 10, 2009 3:28 pm
Location: Canada
Motorcycle: Honda GoldWing
Gl 1800 2003

Re: Changing rear brake pads on 202 GL1800A

Post by FlyBoy2121 » Sat Aug 11, 2012 8:24 am

I Boys

Here's another way to change the rear brakes, it is pretty good too. You ave pictures, you have pictures of descriptions.

http://www.pbase.com/fredharmon/rearbrakes

FlyBoy2121 :mrgreen:

twoweeled
Posts: 15
Joined: Wed Oct 25, 2017 12:44 pm
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Motorcycle: 2009 Goldwing

Re: Changing rear brake pads on 202 GL1800A

Post by twoweeled » Mon Mar 19, 2018 1:07 am

I know this should have been the easiest thing to do, but not in my world. I have a 2009. I purchased Honda OEM so it would be simple and smooth. No changes. I open the new pads and continue. I take a look at the existing pads for an idea of how it should look when done. Can't see much of the rear brakes. I crack the brake fluid reservoir open, and push existing pads (pistons) back with a screwdriver. I pull the pin and the old pads drop out. I compare them to my new ones, and sure enough, they don't look exactly the same. :x The new ones have a different backing. :evil: Of course! Not the same! Here we go again :roll: ! So do I put the damn pads in with the different backing? It looks like a sticky backing. I start searching again for any news on this. I find none. I find an article which talks about removing the back and attaching it to the new pads. Doesn't look like these pads were meant to be replaced, but this backing looks too soft to deal with the pressure of the pistons. This is my world :x . can't find anything addressing this, but I know whatever way I decide to handle it, it'll be wrong. I pull the back off the old existing pads and place it on the new pads (after removing backing on new pads). In my mind, I'm thinking that new backing is to keep the noise down on the new pads. WHY COULDN'T THEY HAVE BEEN EXACTLY THE SAME AS WHAT I WAS REMOVING!! :x :x :x
I install the new pads. I rotate the wheel and there is a clicking at a certain spot. :? rotate back and forth, and a click. I remove the pads and reinstall. Eventually the click leaves, but I don't know why. I rotate wheel again and there is another clear rub now. I notice there is a TINY nick on the rotor. Nick hits the pads and makes a noise. I need to carefully file that nick down. I try a file but can't get it in there. I try the old pad, but it just scratches into the old pad (pads too soft relative to the rotor). THE DAMN ROTOR IS SOFT ENOUGH TO GET EASILY NICKED, BUT HARD ENOUGH THAT I CAN'T KNOCK IT OFF!! :x I think I nicked it when I pushed the pistons back with the screwdriver. All I can think of! I finally (mostly) get rid of this TINY nick with a sharpening stone. Noise is greatly reduced.
I take off for a ride around the block without a helmet so I can hear any noise. I can hear what I assume is rubbing between pads and rotor. I'm being easy and smooth with the brake pedal. I've been told to break in brake pads easy for while. Not sure that's correct, but that's what I've always done with bike and cars. They do brake, but the rubbing noise is still there. I was able to hear with the helmet too. I got up to around 50 and would brake to a stop sign, but smoothly. No problem with braking power, but not overly powerful either. I have EBC on the front. They brake harder. Came back home again after about a mile.
Long story, longer! I pull into garage. Rotor has a little different pattern going (grooves) but I expected that. The rear rotor is a little hotter than the linked front left, but not crazy. Normal? I don't know! The rubbing is still there, but I think it should be normal? That's a poor way of asking; is that normal?? :?: :?: I wouldn't be surprised to hear rubbing at slow speeds for a couple of days till the pads seat to the rotor??
Am I safe if the pads haven't fell out in a mile test ride up to 50 mph? No gouging of the rotor.
I'm listening to all opinions and thoughts. Going on a Weekend away ride in about a month. Should I go? :lol: :lol:
Thanks everyone! I'm thick skinned, so go ahead.

User avatar
GoldWingrGreg
Posts: 180
Joined: Tue Aug 24, 2010 7:18 am
Location: Zephyrhills, Florida
Motorcycle: 89 GL1500
03 GL1800
04 GL1800(abs)
05 GL1800(abs)
07 GL1800(abs)

Re: Changing rear brake pads on 202 GL1800A

Post by GoldWingrGreg » Mon Mar 19, 2018 7:46 am

Sorry ... didn't read your whole post, but hopefully enough of it to help. Although Honda has superseded the rear pad part number through the years, I don't believe, at least to my eye, that I can tell the difference between the pads over the years. The OEM pads are what I would want in my Wing. It's possible that the old ones are non-OEM.

As for your knocking or hitting when rotating the wheel. That usually means that the left pad is not installed correctly at the top, it's leaning inward towards the center of the rotor, and hitting on one of the rotor's rivets as the rotor is spun. No filing is needed.

To test: look through the wheel on the left side and verify that the upper part of the pad is sitting correctly in it receiving notch at the top. The arch of the pad needs to match the arch of the rotor.

twoweeled
Posts: 15
Joined: Wed Oct 25, 2017 12:44 pm
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Motorcycle: 2009 Goldwing

Re: Changing rear brake pads on 202 GL1800A

Post by twoweeled » Mon Mar 19, 2018 9:36 am

GoldWingrGreg wrote:
Mon Mar 19, 2018 7:46 am
Sorry ... didn't read your whole post, but hopefully enough of it to help. Although Honda has superseded the rear pad part number through the years, I don't believe, at least to my eye, that I can tell the difference between the pads over the years. The OEM pads are what I would want in my Wing. It's possible that the old ones are non-OEM.

As for your knocking or hitting when rotating the wheel. That usually means that the left pad is not installed correctly at the top, it's leaning inward towards the center of the rotor, and hitting on one of the rotor's rivets as the rotor is spun. No filing is needed.

To test: look through the wheel on the left side and verify that the upper part of the pad is sitting correctly in it receiving notch at the top. The arch of the pad needs to match the arch of the rotor.
Your Avatar is impressive. I did get rid of the knock. I'm sure you're correct about hitting a rivet or something. I pulled the pad back out and pressed it to the arch of the rotor, and rotated the wheel clockwise up into the caliper. Felt around and put it in. I was able to see from the other side it was sitting in the notch. No more clicking or knocking, but I do have that rubbing, which sounds like the pads to the rotor. Not perfectly steady. A bit of highs and lows probably from a very slightly warped rotor?
1. is the rubbing sound normal? how long?
2. The pads I took out were OEM. Never been changed before. Should I have left the new pads with the packaged backing? Seems strange to have soft black backing with a single sided sticky paper between the black backing and the actual backing plate.

Thanks alot for your thoughts. I know it was a long story, but I was super annoyed and tried to give all the facts.

Take care,

User avatar
themainviking
Posts: 3140
Joined: Wed Sep 29, 2010 6:59 pm
Location: North Bay, Ontario, Canada
Motorcycle: 2009 GL1800 AD
1987 Harley Softail Custom
1974 Harley FLH (sold)
1965 Harley FLHE (sold)
1957 Harley Chopper (sold)

Re: Changing rear brake pads on 202 GL1800A

Post by themainviking » Tue Mar 20, 2018 8:25 am

twoweeled wrote:
Mon Mar 19, 2018 9:36 am

Your Avatar is impressive. I did get rid of the knock. I'm sure you're correct about hitting a rivet or something. I pulled the pad back out and pressed it to the arch of the rotor, and rotated the wheel clockwise up into the caliper. Felt around and put it in. I was able to see from the other side it was sitting in the notch. No more clicking or knocking, but I do have that rubbing, which sounds like the pads to the rotor. Not perfectly steady. A bit of highs and lows probably from a very slightly warped rotor?
1. is the rubbing sound normal? how long?
2. The pads I took out were OEM. Never been changed before. Should I have left the new pads with the packaged backing? Seems strange to have soft black backing with a single sided sticky paper between the black backing and the actual backing plate.

Thanks alot for your thoughts. I know it was a long story, but I was super annoyed and tried to give all the facts.

Take care,
One thought I had. If you had the brake recall done with the old pads in, then your brake fluid level may be high. If you were to give the rear caliper a couple of bleed cycles, the pistons may relax a bit and the pads may stop rubbing on the rotor.
It ain't about the destination - it's all about the journey

Image

User avatar
GoldWingrGreg
Posts: 180
Joined: Tue Aug 24, 2010 7:18 am
Location: Zephyrhills, Florida
Motorcycle: 89 GL1500
03 GL1800
04 GL1800(abs)
05 GL1800(abs)
07 GL1800(abs)

Re: Changing rear brake pads on 202 GL1800A

Post by GoldWingrGreg » Tue Mar 20, 2018 9:06 am

twoweeled wrote:
Mon Mar 19, 2018 9:36 am
No more clicking or knocking, but I do have that rubbing, which sounds like the pads to the rotor. Not perfectly steady. A bit of highs and lows probably from a very slightly warped rotor?
1. is the rubbing sound normal? how long?
2. The pads I took out were OEM. Never been changed before. Should I have left the new pads with the packaged backing? Seems strange to have soft black backing with a single sided sticky paper between the black backing and the actual backing plate.

Thanks alot for your thoughts. I know it was a long story, but I was super annoyed and tried to give all the facts.

Take care,
Rear rotor runout is 0.012", which can cause a dragging/scrapping sound at certain parts of the rotor as it spins. The rotor should be checked for excessive runout, and it's thickness checked to know if all is safe. As a rotor wears and gets thinner, the likelihood of warpage increases.

The rear pad's "shims" are teflon coated. This coating allows them to shift and settle during use. Those shims are for noise, and will not affect their effectiveness to stop the Wing. If it was my Wing, would have left them on.

twoweeled
Posts: 15
Joined: Wed Oct 25, 2017 12:44 pm
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Motorcycle: 2009 Goldwing

Re: Changing rear brake pads on 202 GL1800A

Post by twoweeled » Tue Mar 20, 2018 9:34 pm

GoldWingrGreg wrote:
Tue Mar 20, 2018 9:06 am
twoweeled wrote:
Mon Mar 19, 2018 9:36 am
No more clicking or knocking, but I do have that rubbing, which sounds like the pads to the rotor. Not perfectly steady. A bit of highs and lows probably from a very slightly warped rotor?
1. is the rubbing sound normal? how long?
2. The pads I took out were OEM. Never been changed before. Should I have left the new pads with the packaged backing? Seems strange to have soft black backing with a single sided sticky paper between the black backing and the actual backing plate.

Thanks alot for your thoughts. I know it was a long story, but I was super annoyed and tried to give all the facts.

Take care,
Rear rotor runout is 0.012", which can cause a dragging/scrapping sound at certain parts of the rotor as it spins. The rotor should be checked for excessive runout, and it's thickness checked to know if all is safe. As a rotor wears and gets thinner, the likelihood of warpage increases.

The rear pad's "shims" are teflon coated. This coating allows them to shift and settle during use. Those shims are for noise, and will not affect their effectiveness to stop the Wing. If it was my Wing, would have left them on.
I was totally unaware of the shims. I saw they were not identical to what I had, and took them off. I never read any reference to them, and I took them off! Welcome to my world. Lol. I also knew if I left them on, it would've been wrong.
Maybe I'll pull the pads and reinstall with backing. Thanks for clearing that up for me.

twoweeled
Posts: 15
Joined: Wed Oct 25, 2017 12:44 pm
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Motorcycle: 2009 Goldwing

Re: Changing rear brake pads on 202 GL1800A

Post by twoweeled » Tue Mar 20, 2018 11:15 pm

themainviking wrote:
Tue Mar 20, 2018 8:25 am
twoweeled wrote:
Mon Mar 19, 2018 9:36 am

Your Avatar is impressive. I did get rid of the knock. I'm sure you're correct about hitting a rivet or something. I pulled the pad back out and pressed it to the arch of the rotor, and rotated the wheel clockwise up into the caliper. Felt around and put it in. I was able to see from the other side it was sitting in the notch. No more clicking or knocking, but I do have that rubbing, which sounds like the pads to the rotor. Not perfectly steady. A bit of highs and lows probably from a very slightly warped rotor?
1. is the rubbing sound normal? how long?
2. The pads I took out were OEM. Never been changed before. Should I have left the new pads with the packaged backing? Seems strange to have soft black backing with a single sided sticky paper between the black backing and the actual backing plate.

Thanks alot for your thoughts. I know it was a long story, but I was super annoyed and tried to give all the facts.

Take care,
One thought I had. If you had the brake recall done with the old pads in, then your brake fluid level may be high. If you were to give the rear caliper a couple of bleed cycles, the pistons may relax a bit and the pads may stop rubbing on the rotor.
I did have the brake recall done. Brake fluid level seemed okay. I'd be willing to pump the pedal a few times, but taking bleeding further than that, would/could result in a hugooo headache for me. Maybe a trip to a mechanic. Lol
Thanks for the idea. I'll look into it.

Red Ron
Posts: 353
Joined: Thu May 20, 2010 1:13 pm
Location: Prestonsburg, KY; Edgewater FL
Motorcycle: '08, '13 GL1800
Rear-Yoko Avid Assend 195x60x16
Front-Battleaxe BT-45

Re: Changing rear brake pads on 202 GL1800A

Post by Red Ron » Thu Mar 22, 2018 10:10 am

I would like to chime in with a question. I like to take the calipers apart and clean the pistons before I push them back into the caliper. I have always taken the rear wheel off to do this. With a car tire (60 series), I am wondering if I could avoid putting the bike on a jack and just take the wheel loose and let it lean out of the way while the bike is on the centerstand rather than pulling the wheel all the way out. Or is it possible with the bike on the centerstand, just remove the right muffler and get the caliper off?

User avatar
PastoT
Posts: 416
Joined: Sun Jul 01, 2012 9:20 pm
Location: Mt Home, Idaho
Motorcycle: 2002 GL1800 (122k)

Re: Changing rear brake pads on 202 GL1800A

Post by PastoT » Fri Apr 13, 2018 2:11 pm

Red Ron, you might be on to something. I just replaced my pads and rotors all around a couple weeks ago, but normally I'd replace pads without removing the wheels. The front is nothing to remove to clean the calipers but the rear is at a bad angle and location to clean and compress the cylinders. Obviously the wheel side of the caliper is nearly inaccessible. I don't know if you can clear the rear tire with the caliper, but if you slide out the old pads first you might have a better chance of twisting the caliper over the edge of the rotor and clear. Certainly pulling the right hand muffler would give you lots of room, but I noticed the brake lines are very short so you still have limitations.
Tom, in Mountain Home, Idaho
2002 GL1800 (Illusion Red) Non-ABS, 122k miles
Retired Air Force

"Audentes Fortuna Juvat"

Red Ron
Posts: 353
Joined: Thu May 20, 2010 1:13 pm
Location: Prestonsburg, KY; Edgewater FL
Motorcycle: '08, '13 GL1800
Rear-Yoko Avid Assend 195x60x16
Front-Battleaxe BT-45

Re: Changing rear brake pads on 202 GL1800A

Post by Red Ron » Fri Apr 13, 2018 7:25 pm

PastoT wrote:
Fri Apr 13, 2018 2:11 pm
Red Ron, you might be on to something. I just replaced my pads and rotors all around a couple weeks ago, but normally I'd replace pads without removing the wheels. The front is nothing to remove to clean the calipers but the rear is at a bad angle and location to clean and compress the cylinders. Obviously the wheel side of the caliper is nearly inaccessible. I don't know if you can clear the rear tire with the caliper, but if you slide out the old pads first you might have a better chance of twisting the caliper over the edge of the rotor and clear. Certainly pulling the right hand muffler would give you lots of room, but I noticed the brake lines are very short so you still have limitations.
I think I will try it next time. The most it can cost me is having to put the wheel back on the lugs so I can put it up on a jack. I havent had the mufflers off on this bike but on previous bikes I have found it is easy to foul the lead gaskets and then you might have a backfire or other related problems. Good point about pulling the pads first. Might get enough wiggle room that way to get the caliper off the rotor without pulling the wheel.

User avatar
PastoT
Posts: 416
Joined: Sun Jul 01, 2012 9:20 pm
Location: Mt Home, Idaho
Motorcycle: 2002 GL1800 (122k)

Re: Changing rear brake pads on 202 GL1800A

Post by PastoT » Fri Apr 13, 2018 9:38 pm

I had to use an impact driver to break loose the two screws holding the rear rotor in place. To square up with mallet I removed my left muffler, easy peasy off and on again. Certainly you have to carefully align pipe when you reinsert the muffler, but I loosened the clamp screw a good bit beyond needed and it went together easily. Putting the tire back up was also easier with the muffler out of the way. I'd never needed to pull a muffler off my bike.


Tom, in Mountain Home, Idaho
2002 GL1800 (Illusion Red) Non-ABS, 122k miles
Retired Air Force

"Audentes Fortuna Juvat"

Post Reply