Inside the clutch lever is a cylindrical brass bushing with a hole drilled in the side of it. A pushrod fits into this hole, and that pushrod actuates the clutch master cylinder piston. The reason for the bushing is that the clutch lever is made of aluminum, and it would quickly wear through. Not that the brash bushing is immune to wear - over time, the thousands of clutch presses will also wear the brass bushing. Eventually, given enough time, this bushing will wear through, the pushrod will quickly wear a hole in the back of the clutch lever, and you'll find yourself stranded on the side of the road in need of both a clutch lever and a bushing. So obviously, the time to do this is before it gets to this stage!
What are the symptoms of a worn bushing? Excess clutch lever play is one. If the bushing is worn, the clutch lever can flop around enough that the cruise control switch is activated. If your cruise control deactivates itself for what seems like no reason at all, your clutch lever bushing could be at fault.
Another symptom is hard shifting, or creeping in first gear. If the bushing is worn, the piston isn't being depressed far enough, which means the clutch isn't being fully declutched. This can cause stiff/hard shifting, or "creeping" when waiting at a stop light - not to mention excessive clutch wear!
So how much will this cost? Virtually nothing, and ten minutes of your time. I purchased my replacement bushing from Cyclemax for all of $8.50. The bushing part number for all GL1500's, regardless of year or model, is 22885-MB0-006.
1. The bushing is located at the inner portion of the clutch lever, embedded in the lever itself, as shown by the red arrow.
2. Using a 10mm socket, remove the locknut from the bottom of the clutch lever assembly.
3. Use a large flat blade screwdriver to back out the pivot screw holding the lever in place.
4. Once loosened, remove the pivot screw. The screw is chromed, to prevent wear (chrome is extremely hard).
5. Gently pull the clutch lever free of the clutch master cylinder. Note the plunger left in the master cylinder.
6. Push the old bushing out of the clutch lever.
7. My old bushing had significant internal wear - it was definitely time to be replaced. This bushing was likely original, with just over 60,000 miles on it.
8. The back side of my bushing, where it pushed against the inside of my clutch lever was also quite scored and worn.
9. I applied a light layer of lithium grease to my new bushing to help prevent future wear.
10. Push the new bushing into the lever, making sure the hole in the side lines up with the slot as shown.
11. Position the lever so that the pushrod fits into the hole in the bushing, then push the lever into place, making sure the pivot hole lines up.
12. I coated my pivot screw with a light layer of lithium grease to help with wear and smoothness.
13. Tighten the pivot screw into place.
14. While holding the pivot screw with the screwdriver to prevent it from turning, tighten the locknut on the bottom of the lever.
15. Make sure to test the clutch for full travel, and to ensure there is no binding.
