Synthetic Oil / Lube

[N2PPN]

I know I am askin' alot of questions here and may be probably askin' stuff that's already been discussed, but here goes:

I already use synthetic oils and lubes on all of my other vehicles (1988 Jeep Grand Wagoneer, 1989 Toyota Corolla All Trac, 2004 Hyundai Sonata, 2008 Dodge Avenger, and use synthetic 2 stoke oil in the boat engine gas) and am pleased with the results in both service intervals and fuel economy.

Will the Gold Wing also benefit from the changeover to synthetics?? I know the "rear end" oil can be swapped out for synthetic as it is just GL gear oil... but will changing the engine oil to synthetics cause any unforeseen problems ?? I know that the transmission uses the engine oil as lubricant and there are different factors to be considered for this type of lubrication requirement on top of engine lubrication...

Any opinions or ideas??

The swingarm would benefit from synthetic grease as needle bearings don't care, but what about the fork oil being synthetic ATF?? Would the fork action change any??

All these questions... all this stuff running around inside my head...


Rich

[tfdeputydawg]

I have been chastized for this statement on other forums. Having said that, I have been using the "proper" synthetics for years before they became the "in" thing to do. I double the vehicle manufacturers recommended change intervals, unless the vehicle comes with synthetic oil in it or is equiped with a monitering system that tells you when to change. I have yet to have any lube based failures on any vehicle!
I can remember when Mobile 1 was introduced: the ads were run it for 25K, change the filter, run another 25K, then change the oil and the filter.
You are not to use the energy conserving type synthetic in anything that has a wet clutch using the engine oil. The claim is, slipping clutch will result.
I usually buy whatever synthetic is on sale and never pay attention to it being energy conserving or not. Never have had a slipping clutch.
I have never understood how all these things like, change your oil every 3,000miles get started and how many people end up believing these statements to be true!
Another good one is to spend extra money to put nitrogen in the tires! First of all it's impossible to evacuate all the "air" out of a tire so it's 100% nitrogen and the air we breathe is already 78% nitrogen! The claim is tire pressures and temps are more constant w/nitrogen. Whatever............. I just make sure I have winter air in the tires during cold weather and summer air in the tires during hot weather
Dawg

[fysty-1]

You have to be careful as to what synthetic you put into your engine because most contain friction inhibitors and you defenitly do not want that around your clutch as it is oil bathed by the engine oil.

[WingAdmin]

I use synthetic gear oil in the final drive, and regular dino oil (motorcycle specific) in the engine. I've read posts from people who have had clutch problems when using synthetic engine oil (mostly slipping clutch problems) that disappeared when they switched back to non-synthetic. Try what you think will work for you - and if it doesn't work, try something else. Just heed the warning about friction modifiers - oil with friction modifiers really should not be touching your clutch.

[goldylocks]

I've been using Mobil 1 15W-50 and Shell Rotella-T synthetic 10W-40 for 100,000+ miles along with the Purolator synthetic oil filters and never had a lick of trouble. I also use synthetic in the rear differential. I also tried Dot 5 brake fluid without any issues but have gone back to the highest boiling point Dot3/4 that is readily available at a reasonable price. Braided SS brake lines are also a must in my book.

I think shifting is improved and the rear end is quieter.

[tfdeputydawg]

I have been chastized for this statement on other forums. Having said that, I have been using the "proper" synthetics for years before they became the "in" thing to do. I double the vehicle manufacturers recommended change intervals, unless the vehicle comes with synthetic oil in it or is equiped with a monitering system that tells you when to change. I have yet to have any lube based failures on any vehicle!
I can remember when Mobile 1 was introduced: the ads were run it for 25K, change the filter, run another 25K, then change the oil and the filter.
You are not to use the energy conserving type synthetic in anything that has a wet clutch using the engine oil. The claim is, slipping clutch will result.
I usually buy whatever synthetic is on sale and never pay attention to it being energy conserving or not. Never have had a slipping clutch.
I have never understood how all these things like, change your oil every 3,000miles get started and how many people end up believing these statements to be true!
Another good one is to spend extra money to put nitrogen in the tires! First of all it's impossible to evacuate all the "air" out of a tire so it's 100% nitrogen and the air we breathe is already 78% nitrogen! The claim is tire pressures and temps are more constant w/nitrogen. Whatever............. I just make sure I have winter air in the tires during cold weather and summer air in the tires during hot weather
Dawg

The next 2 posts after this one(above) of mine, talked about slipping clutches Go figure. Neither poster has had the experience, just heard or seen posts

[MikeB]

I've used Mobile 1 and then Shell Rotella T synthetic since 2000. I put 161,000 mile on my '99 wing and the synthetic worked flawlessly.

I now ride a '98 wing and have put 109,000 miles on it. I got the bike with about 2000 miles on it. At the 6000 mile point, I started using Rotella T synthetic. There has never been a clutch or transmission or engine problem of any kind using the synthetic oils.

Only you can judge and use what suits you.

[dingdong]

I personally know a lot of folks that use synthetic oil successfully. However When I tried it in my 76 gl some of the seals started to leak. Especially at the valve covers. Switched back to dino oil and the leaks stopped. I have "heard" and or "read" of others with the same results.

[N2PPN]

After having read all the posts I am inclined to try synthetics. I have used Royal Purple products before with great results, so I will probably try their motorcycle oil (http://www.royalpurple.com/motorcycle-oil.html) and report back in the future about it's use in MY wing. I will be finishing up my bike in about a week or so, so an oil change after a few laps around the neighborhood will be in order soon..


Rich