Removing the rear wheel without disassembling the bike


Step-by-step tutorials on how to maintain and fix your GL1500
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offcenter
Posts: 678
Joined: Sat Sep 22, 2012 2:10 pm
Location: Lake Hopatcong, New Jersey
Motorcycle: 99 Gl-1500 SE
76 GL-1000
77 Honda Trail 90

Re: Removing the rear wheel without disassembling the bike

Post by offcenter »



I am in the middle of trying this method right now, on my 98 SE.
Just like MRJAY62, my saddlebags are hitting the rear crash bars.
The bars have to come off. But the lower bolt for the bars
is buried behind the chrome plastic trim that is held on by
those damned adjustable passenger footboards.
Is there any way to get those lower crash bar bolts
out without removing the footboards?
I may drill a 3/4 inch hole through the chrome plastic
trim so I can access the bolts with a socket wrench
without disassembling all that stuff.
Down there, no one will notice it but me.


George in Jersey.
99 Goldwing GL-1500 SE
76 Goldwing Gl-1000
77 Honda CT-90 "Trail 90"

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WingAdmin
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Posts: 21127
Joined: Fri Oct 03, 2008 4:16 pm
Location: Strongsville, OH
Motorcycle: 2000 GL1500 SE
1982 GL1100A Aspencade (sold)
1989 PC800 (sold)
1998 XV250 Virago (sold)
2012 Suzuki Burgman 400 (wife's!)
2007 Aspen Sentry Trailer

Re: Removing the rear wheel without disassembling the bike

Post by WingAdmin »

offcenter wrote:I am in the middle of trying this method right now, on my 98 SE.
Just like MRJAY62, my saddlebags are hitting the rear crash bars.
The bars have to come off. But the lower bolt for the bars
is buried behind the chrome plastic trim that is held on by
those damned adjustable passenger footboards.
Is there any way to get those lower crash bar bolts
out without removing the footboards?
I may drill a 3/4 inch hole through the chrome plastic
trim so I can access the bolts with a socket wrench
without disassembling all that stuff.
Down there, no one will notice it but me.
Nope. I've just gotten very fast at removing the passenger footboards. Two screws, two bolts, and they're off. Maybe 5 minutes work.

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hondageorge
Posts: 44
Joined: Mon Nov 11, 2013 12:26 am
Location: Snellville, Georgia
Motorcycle: 1997 GL-1500SE
2005 Silverwing
1992 Honda 750
2004 Honda VTX 1300 S (sold)
1970 CL-350 (original first bike)

1970 CB-350

Re: Removing the rear wheel without disassembling the bike

Post by hondageorge »

I agree. The rear adjustable floorboards are very easy to remove and hold out of the way so you can get at the crash bar bolts. 5 or 10 minutes tops. Mine took a pretty big allen wrench (which I had in my set) for the floorboard bolts.
Before you lift, double check your airline on the rear shock absorber. Mine stretched too much when lifted, so I let the shock air out and removed it rather then try to stretch it & possibly pull the end off...or worse. If you have any electrical powered accessories in your saddlebags or trunk, be sure you have sufficient slack to account for the lift....just sayin... take your time, use the checklist...this procedure works for a great deal of us.
HondaGeorge

Purplehazed96
Posts: 1
Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2016 9:57 am
Location: Troy,NY
Motorcycle: 1996 Honda Goldwing 1500 Aspencade,1985 Honda Nighthawk 650

Re: Removing the rear wheel without disassembling the bike

Post by Purplehazed96 »

If you just separate left case from bike without removing completely,you'll have better access to remove caliper assembly.I helped my local mechanic with a home made table just about 12 inches off floor with a removable rear middle section to gain more clearance to lower wheel from bike.He also did the muffler loosening,etc.

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jek7galo
Posts: 35
Joined: Wed Jan 03, 2018 9:55 am
Location: Porto Alegre - Brazil
Motorcycle: 1998 - GL 1500 SE
2000 - ZX 12R
1995 - ZG 1200
1986 - CBX 750 F

Re: Removing the rear wheel without disassembling the bike

Post by jek7galo »

Very nice, I need make this :twisted:

TuomasHvn
Posts: 1
Joined: Fri Jun 26, 2020 8:57 am
Location: Finland
Motorcycle: Gl 1500 1989

Re: Removing the rear wheel without disassembling the bike

Post by TuomasHvn »

Hi, I am new here and a new GW owner and I tried this method. Didn't work until I removed the side panniers. Naturally my 1989 Gl 1500 had one Philips screw for the rear lights completely stuck so I had to drill it. What a pain.

After I got the panniers away I noticed that my right side crash bar was a little bent. I used some force to straighten it and then the entire pannier frame started to move but it got stuck again. I investigated what caused it this time and found that the air line fromthe suspension controller unit is at the breaking point.

So, I don't know what is the situation with newer Honda GL 1500's, is the pneumatic line longer, but I would not recommend lifting the pannier frame that much. That air hose will break. Otherwise this guide is good like the rest of this site. This was my first message here! :) I hope that the attachment works.
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