The old Oil Question again


Information and questions on GL1200 Goldwings (1984-1987)
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olewingrider
Posts: 24
Joined: Sun Oct 21, 2018 10:35 am
Location: Whitecourt.Alberta ,Canada
Motorcycle: 1984 Honda GL1200A

The old Oil Question again

Post by olewingrider » Sat Oct 27, 2018 9:57 am



I don't know what kind of oil was used in the 1200 I just got, I have half a barrel of 0-40 Petro Canada Duran diesal oil here I use in my Cummins and the 2 vehicles we have. I used to use 15-40 in all my other wings? but our temp is cold half of the year and this will help it start.whats your thoughts.



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DenverWinger
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Motorcycle: 1980 GL-1100 STD Vetter (2005-)
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Past rides
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Re: The old Oil Question again

Post by DenverWinger » Sat Oct 27, 2018 10:20 am

'0w' will just make easier starting and pressure up faster in the cold, the '40' is the important part. 'Long as there's no friction modifiers, your 'Wing should love it.
♫ 99 Little Bugs in the Code, ♪
♪ 99 Bugs in the Code. ♫ :(
♫ Take one down, Patch it around, ♪
♫ 127 Little Bugs in the Code. ♫ ♪ :shock:

~Mark

olewingrider
Posts: 24
Joined: Sun Oct 21, 2018 10:35 am
Location: Whitecourt.Alberta ,Canada
Motorcycle: 1984 Honda GL1200A

Re: The old Oil Question again

Post by olewingrider » Sat Oct 27, 2018 10:44 am

thanks,yes there no friction modifiers in it.

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AZgl1800
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Location: Lake Oologah Indian Territory USA
Motorcycle: '02 GL1800

Re: The old Oil Question again

Post by AZgl1800 » Sun Oct 28, 2018 1:02 am

olewingrider wrote:
Sat Oct 27, 2018 9:57 am
I don't know what kind of oil was used in the 1200 I just got, I have half a barrel of 0-40 Petro Canada Duran diesal oil here I use in my Cummins and the 2 vehicles we have. I used to use 15-40 in all my other wings? but our temp is cold half of the year and this will help it start.whats your thoughts.
as said, that is a "perfect oil weight combo" and use it in every vehicle you own, no point in have multiple grades of oil.

I am now using Rotella T6 in 5w40, would rather have 0w30
my car requires 5w20 to prevent voiding the warranty, it is a 2007 Pontiac Vibe, it has been on full synthetic since new.
I have a Blackstone Oil report that I had done once when I overlooked changing the oil ( life circumstances ) and let the car go to 16,500 miles before getting it changed.

Oil Reports on Pontiac Vibe
Main page





2nd half





Comments





they commented that I could repeat the 15k to 16k oil change period if I wanted to.
Nah, don't think so, will do it annually at about 6k to 8k miles.
it has been changed annually since it was new, why break a good thing?

It is easier for me, to remember to change the oil every December 1st,
than it is to try and read the odometer and figure out if it has traveled far enough?

Change oil

01/23/2018
87603 Odometer
4.4 qts Synthetic 5w20
Mobil-1
15,163 miles since last.
Sending sample to Blackstone Labs
Filter. # 4476
Sample came back, good to go.
Attachments






~John

olewingrider
Posts: 24
Joined: Sun Oct 21, 2018 10:35 am
Location: Whitecourt.Alberta ,Canada
Motorcycle: 1984 Honda GL1200A

Re: The old Oil Question again

Post by olewingrider » Sun Oct 28, 2018 9:45 am

wow. that's a long ways between changes, it must be black like tar. if I go any longer than 5000 MILES ( 7500 Kms ) its black like tar.

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themainviking
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Location: North Bay, Ontario, Canada
Motorcycle: 2009 GL1800 AD
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Re: The old Oil Question again

Post by themainviking » Sun Oct 28, 2018 3:19 pm

olewingrider wrote:
Sun Oct 28, 2018 9:45 am
wow. that's a long ways between changes, it must be black like tar. if I go any longer than 5000 MILES ( 7500 Kms ) its black like tar.
If it is black, it is doing it's job, capturing and holding in suspension all the carbon caused by internal combustion. Even if the carbon particles are captured by the oil filter, the color remains. A finer filter might hold off the black a bit longer, but not forever. Also, a finer filter could clog, although there are some pretty decent filters out there that can take a lickin and keep on tickin. I do not refer to Fram or K&N as being these decent filters. Donaldson made filters are pretty darn good. I have always thought the filter was more important than the brand of oil used. Shell Rotella T is indeed an excellent product, as are Mobile 1 and Amsoil. If you are avoiding synthetics, then Rotella T6, Mobil 1 and Amsoil come off the table. The viscosity can be pretty variable, but 0W40 is pretty all encompassing. JASO MA/MA2 is critical for wet clutch operation. The only oil related problems I have ever seen that caused trouble were actually lack of oil, or the high detergent in some oils cleaning seals so well they leak.
It ain't about the destination - it's all about the journey

Image

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AZgl1800
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Location: Lake Oologah Indian Territory USA
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Re: The old Oil Question again

Post by AZgl1800 » Sun Oct 28, 2018 4:27 pm

Yes,
the color of it scared me, it was BLACK as TAR...


but the report proved that all was well at the time of that report.

In the trucking industry, and with Railroad Engines, the oil is never changed, they just change out the filters and pour in make up oil.

I used to work for a Natural Gas Pipeline company.
they had engines running there that were installed in 1929 and as of the time I worked there,
1969 through 1978, the oil had never been changed!!!

they used "Pure Earth" filters and changed those out on schedule and added make up oil.
Those engines were huge monsters, 12 foot diameter flywheels, and the pistons were 2 stroke

The pistons slid back and forth on a horizontal bed that was well over 24 feet long.
and oil was sprayed onto the bed with each stroke.
~John

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Rednaxs60
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Motorcycle: 1985 GL1200 LTD
1995 GL1500 SE CDN Edition
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Re: The old Oil Question again

Post by Rednaxs60 » Sun Oct 28, 2018 5:17 pm

These older GWs only need a good high quality detergent oil that has no friction additives. The JASO specification didn't come out until 1999. Use a 10W30/40, or 5W30/40 with no friction modifiers. If you are a fan of synthetic the European formulas are good and generally do not have friction modifiers. Most modern oils are compatible going from synthetic to mineral and the other way. Just make sure that the lower half of the API donut is left blank, and the latest spec is API SN. Here is an example of the API donut with the lower half blank:


Pick an oil that is available in your area, has no friction modifiers, and is in your price range and have fun with the bike.

Cheers


"When you write the story of your life, don't let anyone else hold the pen"

Ernest

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