Wiring a new start switch assembly - 9 wires to 5


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AussieWing
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Wiring a new start switch assembly - 9 wires to 5

Post by AussieWing » Fri Nov 02, 2018 11:37 pm



I’m restoring a1975 GL1000, and had to completely replace the right side handlebar switching including wiring down to main harness. The new aftermarket switch gear I purchased does not have a headlight on-p-off toggle but just has the kill switch and push start button. Therefore, It has 5 wires to connect rather than 9 in the original.

I’ve connected the 5 new wires too the main harness - colour coding made that easy. But, things aren’t working so I assume I can’t just leave the old wires without some jumper connections or something? Can anybody help? The wire colours from the old setup that don’t have a ‘mate’ now are brown/blue, black/brown, and 2x yellow wires.

Maybe it’s related also, but I’m putting in Dyna coils and electronic ignition so I’ve removed the ballast resistor as per Dyna instructions. Do I simply connect the old inward and outward ballast resistor wires (black and black/brown)?



Old Fogey
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Re: Wiring a new start switch assembly - 9 wires to 5

Post by Old Fogey » Wed Nov 07, 2018 4:32 am

To the last question the answer is yes, connect together.

For the switch, I don't have a wiring daigram to hand but I will try to get looking later.
'Impossible' is just a level of difficulty! The only stupid question is the one you didn't ask first!

( Seriously, you haven't read all 115 pages of my http://www.wingovations.com website ?? :shock: )

AussieWing
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Re: Wiring a new start switch assembly - 9 wires to 5

Post by AussieWing » Thu Nov 08, 2018 2:42 am

Thank you very much for responding. That at least solves part of my problem. I've now joined the old inward and outward ballast restore wires.

I'm still looking for some guidance on the other part of my problem. I thought I had connected all the wires correctly using the wiring diagram for guidance BUT I now have a 'dead short' that results in the main 15A fuse blowing and the 5A fuse blowing (in the main fuse box under left shelter). It could be a separate problem. But I'm still finding it tough to sort out. Any other advice greatly appreciated.

Cheers

kndw
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Re: Wiring a new start switch assembly - 9 wires to 5

Post by kndw » Thu Nov 08, 2018 1:55 pm

AussieWing wrote:
Fri Nov 02, 2018 11:37 pm

I’ve connected the 5 new wires too the main harness - colour coding made that easy. But, things aren’t working so I assume I can’t just leave the old wires without some jumper connections or something? Can anybody help? The wire colours from the old setup that don’t have a ‘mate’ now are brown/blue, black/brown, and 2x yellow wires.
I can't easily share mine, but you should be able to find a wiring diagram with some hard core googling. Just follow the lines, and see what should connect where.

The ignition switch in the on position connects the brown/white wire to the brown/blue wire. This wire goes into the lighting box and branches off into brown/green, which goes to the fuse box 5A fuse and back to the ignition switch for the park position

Black brown comes from the diode and goes to the kill switch (and ballast resistor). The kill switch connects it to the black/white wire

I thought that yellow wires were only around the alternator. In my wiring diagram there are no yellow wires coming from the switches.

Can you post some pictures?

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Re: Wiring a new start switch assembly - 9 wires to 5

Post by Old Fogey » Fri Nov 09, 2018 6:58 pm

First, which switch did you use and did you check that the wires that were the same colours connected the equilavent terminals on each switch?
The two yellow wires are connected when the parking light and #headlamp is on. They bring further output from the alternator into play.

I don't have a specific diagram for your area but I think we can assume it is the same as the general type. I have drawn out the switch wiring diagram for you.


'Impossible' is just a level of difficulty! The only stupid question is the one you didn't ask first!

( Seriously, you haven't read all 115 pages of my http://www.wingovations.com website ?? :shock: )

kndw
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Re: Wiring a new start switch assembly - 9 wires to 5

Post by kndw » Sun Nov 11, 2018 12:56 pm

Old Fogey wrote:
Fri Nov 09, 2018 6:58 pm
First, which switch did you use and did you check that the wires that were the same colours connected the equilavent terminals on each switch?
The two yellow wires are connected when the parking light and #headlamp is on. They bring further output from the alternator into play.

I don't have a specific diagram for your area but I think we can assume it is the same as the general type. I have drawn out the switch wiring diagram for you.

lighting wiring032 (2).jpg
Are all GL's supposed to have those yellow wires there, or is that only a specific (sub) model?

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Re: Wiring a new start switch assembly - 9 wires to 5

Post by Old Fogey » Sun Nov 11, 2018 1:14 pm

As far as I know all regions except the USA bikes have that arrangement. The US bikes have a totally different wiring for the lighting.
'Impossible' is just a level of difficulty! The only stupid question is the one you didn't ask first!

( Seriously, you haven't read all 115 pages of my http://www.wingovations.com website ?? :shock: )

AussieWing
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Re: Wiring a new start switch assembly - 9 wires to 5

Post by AussieWing » Sun Nov 11, 2018 2:26 pm

Thanks again. This information is getting me closer to a fix.

My bike does not have the reserve lighting system like most (all?) of the US bikes. That probably accounts for much of the wiring difference.

The switch connection diagram you posted matches the original switch I’ve removed. But the new right side switch does not have the headlight toggle at all (ie. an off-p-hl toggle). So, my thought now is that if the yellow wires connect to each other unless the light toggle is in the off position (in the original switch) then I should join the two yellows together because the new switch does not have any headlight toggle and I am attempting to just have permanent headlight on setup.

For all the other wires from the new switch I have matched the colours.

The fuses only blow once I turn ignition to P. The don’t blow when ignition is ON. However, when ignition is ON the headlight is not lit and I have no indicator or horn activation. So, your diagram has given me a clue to look at where power comes from. I’ll keep looking and then try and post some pictures.

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Re: Wiring a new start switch assembly - 9 wires to 5

Post by Old Fogey » Sun Nov 11, 2018 3:32 pm

Yes, you have the USA permanently on headlight swtch. Connecting the two yellows together sounds right in this case. On that type of switch the headlight power comes through the starter connections. Look there first. When the button is pressed, the headlight contacts are broken to give full power to the starter. When released those contacts make again and power flows to the lights.

You might be better to cut your heartache and go for this. You would again need to match up the connectors as I think the colours are different.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-HONDA-CB40 ... Swo4pYfju0
'Impossible' is just a level of difficulty! The only stupid question is the one you didn't ask first!

( Seriously, you haven't read all 115 pages of my http://www.wingovations.com website ?? :shock: )

AussieWing
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Re: Wiring a new start switch assembly - 9 wires to 5

Post by AussieWing » Sun Nov 11, 2018 7:36 pm

I think you might be right. I could just buy another switch and the one you sent the link for does look the same as the original. It says it fits CB400F and doesn’t mention GL1000 but I assume you are confident it would work for me?

Interestingly, when I zoom in on the photo there looks to be only 7 wires, with colours I recognise thankfully. The two yellow wires that are also in the original that I have, however, seem to be missing (and that would make the 9 wires in the switch diagram you sent to me earlier as well). But, as I said in my last post now that I’ve seen what you sent, I think the yellows only connect with each other once the lights are turned on - must be sort of a kill switch within a kill switch (ie. the alternator circuits are not complete even when the engine is running unless the headlights are on? Maybe?). Anyway, the yellows don’t seem to connect to anything else in the switch diagram you sent so, even if I buy the new switch without yellows, I can’t see harm in just joining the yellows back at the main harness. Please let me know if you think that sounds about right?

Old Fogey
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Re: Wiring a new start switch assembly - 9 wires to 5

Post by Old Fogey » Sun Nov 11, 2018 8:09 pm

Yes, the missing wires are the two yellow. Thinking about it, if you simply connect the two together, you will have full power from the alternator all the time. That may cause heat problems in the regulator or boil your battery. If there are no connectors for them in the switch (I have not had one so cannot be sure) it would be easy enough to run a wire from the P teminal to a relay and run the two yellow into either side of that, so that you are only using the extra power when the lights are on.
'Impossible' is just a level of difficulty! The only stupid question is the one you didn't ask first!

( Seriously, you haven't read all 115 pages of my http://www.wingovations.com website ?? :shock: )

AussieWing
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Re: Wiring a new start switch assembly - 9 wires to 5

Post by AussieWing » Sun Nov 11, 2018 8:30 pm

Ok. That makes some sense to me. Would the relay also fire when the lights toggle was on H if only a single wire was connected to the P terminal?

And, what do you think would be the outcome if I just left the two yellows free (ie. no connection with each other AND no connection to the switch)?

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Re: Wiring a new start switch assembly - 9 wires to 5

Post by Old Fogey » Mon Nov 12, 2018 4:02 am

Yes, because if you look at the diagram the P terminal is connected when either the Pilot light or the Headlight switch is activated. In the headlight position both bulbs are lit. You would just make a splice into the black/brown wire to get your relay feed.
If you don't reconnect the yellows you will run out of battery power when running with the lights on. These bikes run on the edge of having enough alternator output as it is.
'Impossible' is just a level of difficulty! The only stupid question is the one you didn't ask first!

( Seriously, you haven't read all 115 pages of my http://www.wingovations.com website ?? :shock: )

AussieWing
Posts: 6
Joined: Fri Nov 02, 2018 11:16 pm
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Re: Wiring a new start switch assembly - 9 wires to 5

Post by AussieWing » Mon Nov 12, 2018 3:32 pm

Thanks Old Fogey! I really appreciate your help.

I’ve decided to buy the right side switch with a lights toggle and 7 wires. That will take a couple of weeks to get to me. And I also like the relay idea for the yellows, though the feed in your earlier diagram looks like it would be Br/Bk rather than Bk/Br I think?

Anyway, thanks again. I will post the outcome in a few weeks.

Cheers



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