Back-from-the-dead '80 GL1100 project


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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OldguyGlen
Posts: 6
Joined: Sat Nov 24, 2018 10:55 am
Location: Mound,MN
Motorcycle: 1980 GL1100 Interstate
1966 Honda 90

Back-from-the-dead '80 GL1100 project

Post by OldguyGlen » Wed Nov 28, 2018 9:49 am



New member here, just starting winter project. Looks like I found the right forum... been browsing past topics.
I'm an old guy, 77 yrs old, widowed, and getting back into 2-wheeling after decades on the sidelines. Restored a '66 Honda 90 last winter, just for practice (had been outdoor stored for 40 yrs.) Rode bikes in my youth, mostly Brit & German... up to 500 cc.
New opportunity now. '80 GL1100 Interstate. Been in a barn for 10 yrs. I agreed to resuscitate it for the owner, in exchange for riding privileges, but might end up buying it if I like the results. ( he already has moved up to a GL1800)
Got it in my shop, just getting familiar with it. Engine turns over easily via wrench, gas tank has some rust, presume carbs need work, and brakes are a disaster.
But just for starters, some simple, dumb questions as I begin to eyeball the situation. How does the gas get from the right side carbs over to the left side carbs? I am generally familiar with CV style carbs (from sports cars and Jetskis), and know it is a challenge to rebuild and synch all 4. But I think just getting them out of the bike may be harder than the rebuild. The bike does roll by hand power in neutral, but it takes a lot of "push". It's not brake drag. Probably wheel bearings, or drive shaft grease all hardened up? Is that likely a problem? I read posts warning about timing belts. Haven't looked yet. Bike has 20k miles, don't know what maintenance was done. If belts are pliable and look good, are they OK?. Same question on brake lines. Fronts look pliable, with no cracks, etc.?
Its a long winter here in Minnesota. I am sure I'll spend a few hours on this forum. thanks in advance.

Old Guy Glen



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quasi2008
Posts: 80
Joined: Fri Oct 05, 2018 12:18 pm
Location: morgantown wv
Motorcycle: 1982 GL1100I INTERSTATE

Re: Back-from-the-dead '80 GL1100 project

Post by quasi2008 » Wed Nov 28, 2018 10:39 am

just got my 82 gl1100 back together. had trouble with the brake hoses. they looked ok but were junk on the inside. changed all brake lines over to stainless. 40 yr old rubber belts = junk, change them, they're cheap. carbs are easy to remove. just have to remove the tops on one side of the bank and they'll slide right out. tires are prob dry rotted up to.
man can't live on air alone!

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Joneszy
Posts: 48
Joined: Sat Jun 24, 2017 10:27 pm
Location: Manitoba Canada
Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100A Aspencade Stripped
1999 Valkerie CT

Re: Back-from-the-dead '80 GL1100 project

Post by Joneszy » Wed Nov 28, 2018 10:47 am

If the bike has only 20,000 miles and has been in a barn for 10 years I am going to go out on a limb and say they are the original belts. So almost 40 years old!! I wouldn't start the bike even if the belts look brand new (which is often the case). As others have said repeatedly change the belts as one of your first upgrades. Won't pass judgement on your other concerns tho. BTW welcome to the insanity, I am a young'un compared to you at 72. Just back into Hondas after flirting on the dark side over at HD for a few years. BTW my first bike as a teenager was a Honda sport65. Man if you took the baffle out of that thing you sounded just like a real biker!!

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virgilmobile
Posts: 8720
Joined: Sun Sep 19, 2010 5:39 pm
Location: Denham Springs,La.
Motorcycle: 1988 GL1500 I
Previously owned
78 GL1000
81 GL1100
82 GL1100 I
83 GL1100 I
83 GL1100 standard
84 GL 1200 I

Re: Back-from-the-dead '80 GL1100 project

Post by virgilmobile » Wed Nov 28, 2018 11:05 am

Expect to spend a LOT of quality time with this project....and $$ too.
My last restore set me back about$800 to get it right.
The carbs are replenished with fuel through the plenum box passages.I usually don't disassemble it.
The timing belts are ok for testing but don't trust them to run the engine.Should one break bad things happen making it a nice lawn ornament.
Remember that this isn't a Honda scrambler..it has lots of mass so it will be tougher to push around.
When on the centerstand and the front wheel lifted,mine would continue to turn at least 1 rotation after a firm spin by hand.The rear isn't the same..lots of mechanism to move there but should turn with very little effort.
Your gonna pull the wheels anyways to replace the tires and that's a good time to "feel" the bearings,grease the driveshaft splines,service the brake calipers etc.
Oh..there's lots to do but first...see if it's a viable engine..Quick compression test.. Hopefully above 100 psi on each..
Don't want to spend a bunch on other things if it doesn't have a heartbeat.

winguyjo
Posts: 96
Joined: Sat Aug 11, 2018 9:26 pm
Location: b.c. Canada
Motorcycle: 1982 gl1100 interstate; resurrection complete.
1980 gl1100 interstate; resurrection underway.

Re: Back-from-the-dead '80 GL1100 project

Post by winguyjo » Wed Nov 28, 2018 1:40 pm

1. buy it now (assuming that he is reasonable in his price). goldwings are awesome !
2. there is a fairly long list of non-honda parts that you can buy and save a TON of money ... belts are 1 ... honda slaps their name on a (gates ?) belt then proceeds to gouge.

OldguyGlen
Posts: 6
Joined: Sat Nov 24, 2018 10:55 am
Location: Mound,MN
Motorcycle: 1980 GL1100 Interstate
1966 Honda 90

Re: Back-from-the-dead '80 GL1100 project

Post by OldguyGlen » Wed Nov 28, 2018 2:06 pm

Thanks to the above for the quick, friendly, encouraging replies. I soaked it with fogging oil in the plug holes, before turning the engine by wrench. +1 on the suggestion to do compression test. Need to get a jumper battery for cranking 1st. Battery seems to be same as my jetskis. In fact, my 900 cc jetski has 20 amp-hour battery in this same group size. I had "guestimated" $600 based on nothing but a hunch. Been shopping internet sites for part numbers and pricing to get a potential bill of materials. Labor doesn't count. I have more time than money now and need to have a project that tickles my fancy anyway. There will be a lot of decisions ahead as to depth and quality of the re-hab. Just get it on the road as cheap as possible, doing clean and adjust, reusing existing parts, or get Chinese aftermarket and used parts, or go over every piece and restore to Honda "new" standards. Part of that decision depends on whether I might end up owning it rather than a shared venture with the owner giving me riding privilege. The Honda 90 project was a good warmup, but done on-the-cheap. I felt like I was cheating to get my motorcycle license endorsement on that toy bike last year. I was the oldest thing at the test site last year, and my bike was second oldest. Most of the others were teens or 20's. Some had never seen a kick-start bike. But Minnesota says you can test on any bike and the endorsement is permanent, with no need to retest for bigger bikes. Nonetheless, I plan to get comfortable on this one in small steps, practicing on private property and light traffic runs in my local area.

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AZgl1800
Posts: 1382
Joined: Thu Oct 30, 2008 2:46 pm
Location: Lake Oologah Indian Territory USA
Motorcycle: '02 GL1800

Re: Back-from-the-dead '80 GL1100 project

Post by AZgl1800 » Wed Nov 28, 2018 4:13 pm

a bike that sat that long, is worth about 300 to 400 bux as is, depending on condition of the plastics.....

I would just buy it off of him, and then you can settle into what you want to do with the bike
~John

OldguyGlen
Posts: 6
Joined: Sat Nov 24, 2018 10:55 am
Location: Mound,MN
Motorcycle: 1980 GL1100 Interstate
1966 Honda 90

Re: Back-from-the-dead '80 GL1100 project

Post by OldguyGlen » Sun Dec 02, 2018 8:49 pm

The owner & I have worked out options on ownership. We are friends & neither one wants to take advantage. He doesn't want to sell too cheap, since he believes it's not in that bad of shape. I don't want to pay too much, even before I know what needs fixing. So I now have an agreed "option" to buy it after its fixed, with my repair costs acknowledged. But if I decide I don't want it, we will sell it and I get compensated for time & materials. I will have enjoyed the project anyway. And he has a newer GL1800, and money is not that critical. I think we'll be OK.
Started taking things apart. Brakes first. Front MC apart OK, looks good. Rear MC not cooperating. Piston won't come out all the way. It moves back into the bore with minor help. I have another front MC off a newer Wing. I use that to pressurized calipers to force pistons out when the calipers are on the bench. I tried to use this MC to pressurize the rear MC for the same purpose of forcing the piston out. But rear MC is different than a caliper... it has 2 holes from the cylinder back up into the intake port where the reservoir connects. I can move the piston part way out, but when the seals clear these intake holes, the pressure escapes out these holes. I replaced the nipple piece and added a short, plugged hose to it. But this plastic nipple piece starts to bend under pressure. It is not designed as a pressure connection. The DYI postings are great, and I've read a bunch already, but none appear to address this problem
So I need help with ideas to get rear MC piston out. Please and thank you...

OldguyGlen
Posts: 6
Joined: Sat Nov 24, 2018 10:55 am
Location: Mound,MN
Motorcycle: 1980 GL1100 Interstate
1966 Honda 90

Re: Back-from-the-dead '80 GL1100 project

Post by OldguyGlen » Tue Dec 04, 2018 11:13 am

Ok, I got the rear MC apart. Just let it soak with the fluid in it a few days, worked the piston back & forth over a range where the pressure relief hole was still covered. It got easier and easier, until I could move it against the spring by hand. Then it popped out by itself far enough to grab it and twist a little. I think the bore was just dry for so long the seals stuck to the cylinder. Corrosion was just on outside surfaces and seems superficial, and it cleaned up very well. Still have 3 calipers to disassemble, but my spare front MC seems a good way to force pistons out.

Couple more dumb observation questions...
Why does the ignition switch (right handlebar) have "off -run-off" positions? Why 2 "offs"?
Can you really change timing belts w/ radiator still on? Probably will remove radiator anyway for clean/flush/pressure test anyway, but was anxious to change belts before I do compression tests, or test fire the engine to estimate carburetor conditions. (Maybe I just want to hear it run a few minutes just for "encouragement" ?)

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WingAdmin
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Posts: 19691
Joined: Fri Oct 03, 2008 4:16 pm
Location: Strongsville, OH
Motorcycle: 2000 GL1500 SE
1982 GL1100A Aspencade (sold)
1989 PC800 (wife's!)
1998 XV250 Virago (sold)
2007 Aspen Sentry Trailer

Re: Back-from-the-dead '80 GL1100 project

Post by WingAdmin » Tue Dec 04, 2018 12:36 pm

OldguyGlen wrote:
Tue Dec 04, 2018 11:13 am
Ok, I got the rear MC apart. Just let it soak with the fluid in it a few days, worked the piston back & forth over a range where the pressure relief hole was still covered. It got easier and easier, until I could move it against the spring by hand. Then it popped out by itself far enough to grab it and twist a little. I think the bore was just dry for so long the seals stuck to the cylinder. Corrosion was just on outside surfaces and seems superficial, and it cleaned up very well. Still have 3 calipers to disassemble, but my spare front MC seems a good way to force pistons out.

Couple more dumb observation questions...
Why does the ignition switch (right handlebar) have "off -run-off" positions? Why 2 "offs"?
Can you really change timing belts w/ radiator still on? Probably will remove radiator anyway for clean/flush/pressure test anyway, but was anxious to change belts before I do compression tests, or test fire the engine to estimate carburetor conditions. (Maybe I just want to hear it run a few minutes just for "encouragement" ?)
The kill switch on a motorcycle is a federally mandated safety feature, as not all motorcycles have easily accessible key switches, particularly when laid over on their sides. As to why the Goldwing has an off-on-off switch - I suppose to make it easier to turn off in an emergency? I couldn't say.

Yes, you can change the timing belts with the radiator still on. I've done it. You will survive with very scraped/shredded knuckles from the experience, and it will probably take twice as long, but it is definitely possible. I'd recommend taking the radiator off. :)

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Aussie81Interstate
Posts: 1036
Joined: Thu Nov 27, 2014 2:34 am
Location: Penrith Australia
Motorcycle: 2001 GL1500F6C Valkyrie
1982 CX500 Turbo (Historic registration - finally)
1981 GL1100 Interstate (sold)
1988 GL1500 (sold)

Re: Back-from-the-dead '80 GL1100 project

Post by Aussie81Interstate » Tue Dec 04, 2018 4:04 pm

Is the bike easier to push around with the calipers removed - maybe they were dragging a bit - maybe pump up the tyres as well - won't hurt putting 50psi in them if it is going to sit for a while.

Carbs - mainly a good clean - synching can be done when off the bike - then fine tuned on the bike. Probably replace the radiator hoses and clamps and flush out the radiator - check the thermostat - hopefully not rusted shut. Definitely worth cleaning out the starter motor - and maybe doing a 3 wire modification for the stator wires - a known source of failure. Check all the ground points and clean up every electrical connection for corrosion. Final drive will need new hypoid oil and more than likely some nice fresh moly paste on the splines.

Have fun and if you get the chance a few pictures would be nice...

:)

OldguyGlen
Posts: 6
Joined: Sat Nov 24, 2018 10:55 am
Location: Mound,MN
Motorcycle: 1980 GL1100 Interstate
1966 Honda 90

Re: Back-from-the-dead '80 GL1100 project

Post by OldguyGlen » Sat Dec 08, 2018 9:42 pm


Spare MC
Spare MC


Caliper piston nearly out
Caliper piston nearly out

All brake components now apart. Cleaned up pretty well. Use of spare MC worked like a charm. Someone apparently tried to disassemble them with a vice grip and crowbar... unsuccessfully. Outboard rim of the pistons were chewed up, but that region is outboard of the seals, so cleanup is not so critical. Front wheel now spins freely without the caliper, with smooth bearing action. So it was brake drag as was suggested above. Lots more to do, but I am more optimistic now that the brakes are apart.



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