Clear coating small area


Technical information and Q&A applicable to all years and models of Goldwings
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Corkster52
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1988 GL1500 (sold 4/17)

Re: Clear coating small area

Post by Corkster52 » Wed Dec 25, 2019 1:00 am



Okay, so now I understand the part about the tape, but what about the "2000" comment? Is that to go over the entire to be newly painted areas with 2000 grip sandpaper?



pocketchange
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Re: Clear coating small area

Post by pocketchange » Wed Dec 25, 2019 11:21 am

correct.. 2000 or 3000 sandpaper, spray (2 or 3 light passes of color and let it dry for a few minutes between spraying) let it dry throughly (a few hours) and see how it looks. If it looks ok then 4/5 coats of clear (let the clear dry for 15/20 mins between coats. Let it dry throughly for several days at typical room temps and if it is not slick enough for your liking, rub it out (gingerly) and walk away.

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Corkster52
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1988 GL1500 (sold 4/17)

Re: Clear coating small area

Post by Corkster52 » Wed Dec 25, 2019 3:27 pm

The thing that makes my bike's paint a bit different is that it has a silver base/primer coat and the red color coat covered with clear coat.

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Corkster52
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Re: Clear coating small area

Post by Corkster52 » Tue Jan 07, 2020 8:49 pm

So...the saga continues. Got tired of chasing brush strokes, so I purchased a spray can of base, color and clear coat from ColorRite (at about $13 for each can). Cleaned up the silver base coat that I had already put on, then put on 3 coats of color coat to make it as dark at the surrounding paint. This is really kinda tricky to do because my old eyes were playing tricks on me. Kind of interesting that they have you put each additional coat on no longer than 20 before the preceding coat. I let the color coats dry, they 2 coats of clear coat and let is all dry for about 5 days. Since I had already purchased a "jar" of clear coat from Color Rite, and didn't want to go through the painstaking job of masking the areas off again, as well as the areas still being a little below flush, I thought heck, I will just fill them up to level with the jar brush and then do the entire lid with the spray clear coat. That all made perfect sense to me until about 10 minutes after I had applied the clear coat. At first, the wrinkles in the clear coat looked even worse than the attached pictures show. Now, I will wait several more days for the clear coat to dry, then sand out the wrinkles and put more clear coat on.













pocketchange
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Re: Clear coating small area

Post by pocketchange » Wed Jan 08, 2020 12:53 am

After seeing your pictures..
the previous paint job does not and will never match your efforts.
You would be better served to get the tank (re)painted.
The OE paint was blended using separate colors (base red and silver gleam)
and getting close to that color is a waste of time.
It ain't worth it.. believe me.
I used to paint professionally and matching this sort of color
is (from your position) not going to meet your expection.. pc
.

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Corkster52
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Re: Clear coating small area

Post by Corkster52 » Wed Jan 08, 2020 10:29 am

I do realize that getting the results I had hoped for is, basically, a lost cause but I thought I should continue to post the results and subsequent setbacks to the group (so if anyone that has similar issues mine can be a reference). As I have mentioned earlier, on this thread and others, all has not been in vain. I have learned a lot through this painful process about ABS, chemicals for cleaning, paint (with various application types, sanding methods, many various Dremel tools and attachments...and last but not least.....how not to underestimate just how lengthy such a process can be and how much patience I need to either see it through or seriously consider other alternatives. Thanks for everyone's support on this project :!:

Ob1quixote
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Re: Clear coating small area

Post by Ob1quixote » Mon Jan 27, 2020 8:05 pm

You cannot hand brush 3 stage paints. And most 2 stage metals, pearls and micas.

You should look at an air brush. Maybe some youtube videos on blending clearcoat.

Also look into Assilex sanding products. When I do clear blends, I prep the blend area with their 1500 grit product, code named Peach.
You can get Assilex jobber sized packs and assortments on Amazon. Well graded abrasives, good stuff.
I buy it by the box, I do it for a living.

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Corkster52
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Re: Clear coating small area

Post by Corkster52 » Thu Jan 30, 2020 10:17 pm

Ob1quixote wrote:
Mon Jan 27, 2020 8:05 pm
You cannot hand brush 3 stage paints. And most 2 stage metals, pearls and micas.

You should look at an air brush. Maybe some youtube videos on blending clearcoat.

Also look into Assilex sanding products. When I do clear blends, I prep the blend area with their 1500 grit product, code named Peach.
You can get Assilex jobber sized packs and assortments on Amazon. Well graded abrasives, good stuff.
I buy it by the box, I do it for a living.
Thanks for your response. I only did a little dab of clearcoat in an area that will not be seen. It wrinkled within 15 minutes so I just wiped off with an alcohol soaked rag. The Corlorcoat in spray cans really are a great product.You can put on basically all of the coats you want in 15-20 minute increments!

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Corkster52
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1988 GL1500 (sold 4/17)

Re: Clear coating small area

Post by Corkster52 » Wed Feb 12, 2020 7:42 am

Ob1quixote wrote:
Mon Jan 27, 2020 8:05 pm
You should look at an air brush. Maybe some youtube videos on blending clearcoat.
The more trial and error times I try to fix what I have, the more this makes sense.

I did also try another thing that somewhat surprised me with the results. After I used MEK to take out the wrinkled paint, I put down, as suggested by a body shop forum, some adhesion promoter. After it dried, on only the dried ABS glued areas, I was able to put on 2 coats of base and 3 of color without it wrinkling! Now, I will let those dry enough to harden and then see what I can do to even out the color variations on some of the places that are too dark. I'll try sanding/polishing first then got to lightly rubbing with MEK if I need to go that far, before I put on the clear coats. Make sense?

The body shop forum also recommended that I try barcoat, which runs about $85 per can and slick coat at $30 a can.

I also did a test area on an old piece of fairing and the paints worked fine on it...with no wrinkles. I am thinking that the bubbling issues I had on the glue and pellets that I used for repairing the cracks made the repaired areas material "special".



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