Clear coating small area


Technical information and Q&A applicable to all years and models of Goldwings
User avatar
Corkster52
Posts: 613
Joined: Sun Jun 06, 2010 9:28 am
Location: Naperville, IL
Motorcycle: 1999 GL1500 Aspencade
1988 GL1500 (sold 4/17)

Re: Clear coating small area

Post by Corkster52 »



Okay, so now I understand the part about the tape, but what about the "2000" comment? Is that to go over the entire to be newly painted areas with 2000 grip sandpaper?



pocketchange
Posts: 63
Joined: Fri Aug 09, 2019 10:21 pm
Location: Houston, Texas
Motorcycle: 1994 GL1500 SE

Re: Clear coating small area

Post by pocketchange »

correct.. 2000 or 3000 sandpaper, spray (2 or 3 light passes of color and let it dry for a few minutes between spraying) let it dry throughly (a few hours) and see how it looks. If it looks ok then 4/5 coats of clear (let the clear dry for 15/20 mins between coats. Let it dry throughly for several days at typical room temps and if it is not slick enough for your liking, rub it out (gingerly) and walk away.

User avatar
Corkster52
Posts: 613
Joined: Sun Jun 06, 2010 9:28 am
Location: Naperville, IL
Motorcycle: 1999 GL1500 Aspencade
1988 GL1500 (sold 4/17)

Re: Clear coating small area

Post by Corkster52 »

The thing that makes my bike's paint a bit different is that it has a silver base/primer coat and the red color coat covered with clear coat.

User avatar
Corkster52
Posts: 613
Joined: Sun Jun 06, 2010 9:28 am
Location: Naperville, IL
Motorcycle: 1999 GL1500 Aspencade
1988 GL1500 (sold 4/17)

Re: Clear coating small area

Post by Corkster52 »

So...the saga continues. Got tired of chasing brush strokes, so I purchased a spray can of base, color and clear coat from ColorRite (at about $13 for each can). Cleaned up the silver base coat that I had already put on, then put on 3 coats of color coat to make it as dark at the surrounding paint. This is really kinda tricky to do because my old eyes were playing tricks on me. Kind of interesting that they have you put each additional coat on no longer than 20 before the preceding coat. I let the color coats dry, they 2 coats of clear coat and let is all dry for about 5 days. Since I had already purchased a "jar" of clear coat from Color Rite, and didn't want to go through the painstaking job of masking the areas off again, as well as the areas still being a little below flush, I thought heck, I will just fill them up to level with the jar brush and then do the entire lid with the spray clear coat. That all made perfect sense to me until about 10 minutes after I had applied the clear coat. At first, the wrinkles in the clear coat looked even worse than the attached pictures show. Now, I will wait several more days for the clear coat to dry, then sand out the wrinkles and put more clear coat on.













pocketchange
Posts: 63
Joined: Fri Aug 09, 2019 10:21 pm
Location: Houston, Texas
Motorcycle: 1994 GL1500 SE

Re: Clear coating small area

Post by pocketchange »

After seeing your pictures..
the previous paint job does not and will never match your efforts.
You would be better served to get the tank (re)painted.
The OE paint was blended using separate colors (base red and silver gleam)
and getting close to that color is a waste of time.
It ain't worth it.. believe me.
I used to paint professionally and matching this sort of color
is (from your position) not going to meet your expection.. pc
.

User avatar
Corkster52
Posts: 613
Joined: Sun Jun 06, 2010 9:28 am
Location: Naperville, IL
Motorcycle: 1999 GL1500 Aspencade
1988 GL1500 (sold 4/17)

Re: Clear coating small area

Post by Corkster52 »

I do realize that getting the results I had hoped for is, basically, a lost cause but I thought I should continue to post the results and subsequent setbacks to the group (so if anyone that has similar issues mine can be a reference). As I have mentioned earlier, on this thread and others, all has not been in vain. I have learned a lot through this painful process about ABS, chemicals for cleaning, paint (with various application types, sanding methods, many various Dremel tools and attachments...and last but not least.....how not to underestimate just how lengthy such a process can be and how much patience I need to either see it through or seriously consider other alternatives. Thanks for everyone's support on this project :!:

Ob1quixote
Posts: 21
Joined: Sun Mar 17, 2019 4:23 pm
Location: Charleston SC
Motorcycle: 1984 GL1200
1979 GL1000
BSA 441
Suzuki DRZ400
Honda CR480

Re: Clear coating small area

Post by Ob1quixote »

You cannot hand brush 3 stage paints. And most 2 stage metals, pearls and micas.

You should look at an air brush. Maybe some youtube videos on blending clearcoat.

Also look into Assilex sanding products. When I do clear blends, I prep the blend area with their 1500 grit product, code named Peach.
You can get Assilex jobber sized packs and assortments on Amazon. Well graded abrasives, good stuff.
I buy it by the box, I do it for a living.

User avatar
Corkster52
Posts: 613
Joined: Sun Jun 06, 2010 9:28 am
Location: Naperville, IL
Motorcycle: 1999 GL1500 Aspencade
1988 GL1500 (sold 4/17)

Re: Clear coating small area

Post by Corkster52 »

Ob1quixote wrote:
Mon Jan 27, 2020 8:05 pm
You cannot hand brush 3 stage paints. And most 2 stage metals, pearls and micas.

You should look at an air brush. Maybe some youtube videos on blending clearcoat.

Also look into Assilex sanding products. When I do clear blends, I prep the blend area with their 1500 grit product, code named Peach.
You can get Assilex jobber sized packs and assortments on Amazon. Well graded abrasives, good stuff.
I buy it by the box, I do it for a living.
Thanks for your response. I only did a little dab of clearcoat in an area that will not be seen. It wrinkled within 15 minutes so I just wiped off with an alcohol soaked rag. The Corlorcoat in spray cans really are a great product.You can put on basically all of the coats you want in 15-20 minute increments!

User avatar
Corkster52
Posts: 613
Joined: Sun Jun 06, 2010 9:28 am
Location: Naperville, IL
Motorcycle: 1999 GL1500 Aspencade
1988 GL1500 (sold 4/17)

Re: Clear coating small area

Post by Corkster52 »

Ob1quixote wrote:
Mon Jan 27, 2020 8:05 pm
You should look at an air brush. Maybe some youtube videos on blending clearcoat.
The more trial and error times I try to fix what I have, the more this makes sense.

I did also try another thing that somewhat surprised me with the results. After I used MEK to take out the wrinkled paint, I put down, as suggested by a body shop forum, some adhesion promoter. After it dried, on only the dried ABS glued areas, I was able to put on 2 coats of base and 3 of color without it wrinkling! Now, I will let those dry enough to harden and then see what I can do to even out the color variations on some of the places that are too dark. I'll try sanding/polishing first then got to lightly rubbing with MEK if I need to go that far, before I put on the clear coats. Make sense?

The body shop forum also recommended that I try barcoat, which runs about $85 per can and slick coat at $30 a can.

I also did a test area on an old piece of fairing and the paints worked fine on it...with no wrinkles. I am thinking that the bubbling issues I had on the glue and pellets that I used for repairing the cracks made the repaired areas material "special".

User avatar
Corkster52
Posts: 613
Joined: Sun Jun 06, 2010 9:28 am
Location: Naperville, IL
Motorcycle: 1999 GL1500 Aspencade
1988 GL1500 (sold 4/17)

Re: Clear coating small area

Post by Corkster52 »

I finally accepted that I was NEVER going to get where I hoped to be on this project a month ago. I found a trunk lid on Ebay that we reasonably priced and ordered it. It should be here on Thursday.

User avatar
oldwing1100
Posts: 15
Joined: Tue Jul 31, 2012 2:50 pm
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Motorcycle: 1982 GL1100A Aspencade
2004 Gl1800A

Re: Clear coating small area

Post by oldwing1100 »

Sorry to hear you had so much trouble with your trunk lid repair.
I had the same problem with an aftermarket luggage rack cracking out the mounting holes so I filled them with ABS and repainted the lid with automotive paint (basecoat clearcoat)
Here is a link to a vid of the final painting

   Never miss a video: Subscribe to the GoldwingDocs YouTube channel today!

User avatar
Rednaxs60
Posts: 2201
Joined: Wed Nov 18, 2015 12:44 pm
Location: Victoria, British Columbia, Canada
Motorcycle: 1985 GL1200 LTD
1995 GL1500 SE CDN Edition
2012 Suzuki DL1000 VStrom
2008 GL1800 (sold)
Ontario 1985 GL1200 LTD (sold)

Re: Clear coating small area

Post by Rednaxs60 »

Corkster52 wrote:
Mon Mar 09, 2020 9:05 pm
I finally accepted that I was NEVER going to get where I hoped to be on this project a month ago. I found a trunk lid on Ebay that we reasonably priced and ordered it. It should be here on Thursday.
Sorry to hear. You were doing such a good job. Oldwing1100 did a good job as well. Have started my C-19 project - painting my 1500 in its entirety. Started because I had painted the panniers and top case from my V-Strom, and these turned out pretty good. Learned about adhesion promoter, works a treat on any plastics that have a release agent used in the molding process such as ABS, polypropylene, and such. Had to learn about clear coat types - 1K/2K/2X. Once these materials are painted, no need to use adhesion promoter again, but won't hurt. Having had success with these, decided to fix some damage on my 1500:


Finished product:


Documenting my journey at: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=55793 and on the Classic Goldwing Forum. I have to admit that repairing, painting a motorcycle like the 1500 - lots of plastic and always some damage to repair - small areas or the whole bike is not an easy task - lots to learn about this painting issue. Good luck with the new trunk lid. Cheers
"When you write the story of your life, don't let anyone else hold the pen"

Ernest

User avatar
Corkster52
Posts: 613
Joined: Sun Jun 06, 2010 9:28 am
Location: Naperville, IL
Motorcycle: 1999 GL1500 Aspencade
1988 GL1500 (sold 4/17)

Re: Clear coating small area

Post by Corkster52 »

Rednaxs60 wrote:
Wed Apr 01, 2020 9:34 am
Learned about adhesion promoter, works a treat on any plastics that have a release agent used in the molding process such as ABS, polypropylene, and such. Had to learn about clear coat types - 1K/2K/2X. Once these materials are painted, no need to use adhesion promoter again, but won't hurt. I have to admit that repairing, painting a motorcycle like the 1500 - lots of plastic and always some damage to repair - small areas or the whole bike is not an easy task - lots to learn about this painting issue. Good luck with the new trunk lid.
Rednaxs60, you have been such a great help on getting my fairing pieces ready to put back on the bike! There has been so much I needed to learn about prep, adhesion, flashing, and spray painting. I'm not exactly where I ultimately want to be regarding painting but I have about 80% of the stuff to make me ready to abandon the rattle-can method of painting and clear-coating in the future. However, that being said, I have had some really great results with using Skotch-Brite heavy duty pads, usually after wet-sanding, to scuff up the surface to be coated. Also, until I get the final spray gun clear-coat that I want to use, this product worked very well https://www.lowes.com/pd/Rust-Oleum-Uni ... 1000760992 I am leaning towards getting this clear-coat made by Speedo Kote. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SX5537Y/?tag=goldwingdocs-20 ... _lig_dp_it Has anyone used it?



Post Reply