How to remove and reinstall your rear wheel


Step-by-step tutorials on how to maintain and fix your GL1100
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wingwrench
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Re: How to remove and reinstall your rear wheel

Post by wingwrench » Mon Sep 14, 2015 3:58 pm



One other thing I forgot to mention that may help someone doing this job and is looking at swingarm of unknown year bike is that ... If your look at the u joint end of the drive shaft.. an 1983 will have a spot of yellow paint on it... and a 81 will have a spot of purple paint on it.. now I'm not 100 % sure of this... But I had two 83 and two 81s swingarms in front of me and both 81 had purple... both 83 had yellow.. so take it with a grain of salt but it may help you determine the year of a swingarm off the shelf...



jp98226
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Re: inadvertently removed spline drive nuts [dang]

Post by jp98226 » Wed Oct 07, 2015 5:49 pm

jp98226 wrote:Greetings WingAdmin and all Others,

Yesterday I undertook the job of greasing my final drive (with genuine Honda moly 60!) on my ’83 GL1100I and, in my enthusiasm, I inadvertently and needlessly took off the five 14mm nuts retaining the slider pins on the final spline drive . . . I did not remove or loosen the actual pins (whew), but I can’t find the torques specs in my Honda manual for the nuts and I’m hoping someone has those numbers, or a ballpark estimate.
For information purposes, I am replying to my own post.

I never did find an official torque rating for the 14mm nuts, because, well, they [apparently] are not intended to be removed . . . unless something goes terribly wrong with the slider pins and those need to be replaced. So my choice came down to buying new "lock nuts" or new standard 14mm flange nuts; the latter to be combined with "red thread-locker" [permanent, high temp/high strength lock-tight product]. Since the threaded stud of the slider pins underwent some mild galling from having the locks nuts removed, by yours truly, I decided to be nice to the treads and use the standard flange nuts with thread-locker. I torqued the nuts down to a 'good and snug' 50 ft/lbs, which is a little less than 50% of their maximum-rated Grade 8 spec..

Just for fun, I tested the red thread-locker "gripping power" on another comparable bolt and nut combo (off bike), allowed it to set-up 24+ hours, mounted it in my vise, and slowly loosened it with the same 1/2 ratchet I used to originally break loose the spline lock-nuts. Results . . . the lock-threaded nut gave-way and felt very similar to the resistance I felt when removing the original lock-nuts. So I'm confident the new flange nuts/thread-locker combo will do the job just fine. Fortunately, the remainder of the final drive greasing and rear wheel remounting went easy-peezy and uneventful. Live and learn, I guess.

jp98226

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Wilcoy02
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Re: How to remove and reinstall your rear wheel

Post by Wilcoy02 » Tue Mar 29, 2016 2:24 pm

I have used this thread a few times. Thank You

My ? step @24 tightening the 3 bolts-- How do you get a wrench on them with out gumming the sides all to pieces to get them off? HOW do you torque them to 29Ft. # ???

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patbrandon1
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Re: How to remove and reinstall your rear wheel

Post by patbrandon1 » Tue Mar 29, 2016 9:36 pm

Wilcoy02 wrote: My ? step @24 tightening the 3 bolts-- How do you get a wrench on them with out gumming the sides all to pieces to get them off? HOW do you torque them to 29Ft. # ???
It has bee a while since I did mine. I think it was last early Spring. But I do recall that my thinner walled Snap-On wrenches and sockets did a good job. I have several different brand name sets of wrenches and sockets, and the Snap-On are a slightly thinner walled.

It did puzzle me a bit the first time I did this because there wasn't a lot of play to get a wrench/socket on those bolts. You may have to check with a friend if you don't have any that are a bit thinner. But it is a bunch easier with the right ones. And on my torque wrench I just had a snap-on stubby thin walled socket on it and managed to get the correct torque without gumming up any of the bolt edges.

You'll get it, just keep at it and smile a lot. Wings like their owners smiling a lot. :D

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imadamine
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Re: How to remove and reinstall your rear wheel

Post by imadamine » Fri Jul 29, 2016 10:59 am

Hi guys I got in trouble with my mechanic when I knew that he lost the spacer the problem is that I live in the middle-east and I cant buy nor ship to my country!!
However if someone can be kind enough to get a rear axle spacer and give specific measures and what material I is made of so I can do one.

Allan10
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Re: How to remove and reinstall your rear wheel

Post by Allan10 » Tue Sep 13, 2016 9:21 am

Morning WingAdmin!!
the how tos are great! have been working on a 82 gl1100I replacethe wheels and taking care of everything I can when its apart. The final drive has a zert which im guessing has not been greased in a Long time whats a good grease to use Ive been using a amsoil synthetic on my other toys was wondering if it would be good for the wing. Thanks
Allan10

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patbrandon1
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Re: How to remove and reinstall your rear wheel

Post by patbrandon1 » Wed Sep 14, 2016 1:36 am

Allan10 wrote:Morning WingAdmin!!
the how tos are great! have been working on a 82 gl1100I replacethe wheels and taking care of everything I can when its apart. The final drive has a zert which im guessing has not been greased in a Long time whats a good grease to use Ive been using a amsoil synthetic on my other toys was wondering if it would be good for the wing. Thanks
Allan10
Hi Allan. I'm by no means WingAdmin, and he will have a perfect answer for you. But I think I asked that same question on here somewhere. I finally just stopped by my local Honda dealer and they squirted in what they told me was best for it and charged me $3.

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WingAdmin
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Re: How to remove and reinstall your rear wheel

Post by WingAdmin » Sun Sep 18, 2016 9:57 am

Allan10 wrote:Morning WingAdmin!!
the how tos are great! have been working on a 82 gl1100I replacethe wheels and taking care of everything I can when its apart. The final drive has a zert which im guessing has not been greased in a Long time whats a good grease to use Ive been using a amsoil synthetic on my other toys was wondering if it would be good for the wing. Thanks
Allan10
The service manual recommends:

NLGI-2 or equivalent lithium-based multipurpose grease with molybdenum disulfide additive

OTTERCOMET
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Re: How to remove and reinstall your rear wheel

Post by OTTERCOMET » Tue Nov 06, 2018 2:16 pm

Following the steps and have the rear wheel out. Step "38. Coat the inside of the wheel spline liberally with Moly 60. Ensure it gets down into the teeth."
I can't see anything that looks like this - and I don't think I missed any steps.
Would it be behind the aluminum cover seen in step 32?
Don't want to take anything apart that I don't have to.

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aznyaz
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Re: How to remove and reinstall your rear wheel

Post by aznyaz » Tue Nov 06, 2018 3:19 pm

Did the spline drive come out of the wheel when you removed the final drive? If it did, you would not see the splines that need to be greased. Look at photo #37. That's the spline drive. The spline drive has 5 pins about 3/8" diameter that need grease as well. They slide back into the 5 corresponding holes in the wheel.

Take some pictures.

OTTERCOMET
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Re: How to remove and reinstall your rear wheel

Post by OTTERCOMET » Tue Nov 06, 2018 3:38 pm

I pulled the spline drive as shown in the photo above #37.
Please scroll down to the photo above #39 (between #38 and #39) kinda looks like disk (maybe a Frisbee would be more accurate) and there is moly smeared all over the splines in that photo - that is the part I don't see.

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aznyaz
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Re: How to remove and reinstall your rear wheel

Post by aznyaz » Tue Nov 06, 2018 4:07 pm

That's the spline drive with a fresh coat of grease.

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WingAdmin
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Re: How to remove and reinstall your rear wheel

Post by WingAdmin » Tue Nov 06, 2018 4:08 pm

OTTERCOMET wrote:
Tue Nov 06, 2018 3:38 pm
I pulled the spline drive as shown in the photo above #37.
Please scroll down to the photo above #39 (between #38 and #39) kinda looks like disk (maybe a Frisbee would be more accurate) and there is moly smeared all over the splines in that photo - that is the part I don't see.
This is the "spider" that pulls out of the wheel:

Image

The inside of the spider ring ring has splines that interface with the splines on the final drive:

Image

These are the pins of the spider that slide into the holes in the wheel:

Image

This is the spider with the pins slid into the holes in the wheel:

Image

Does that make more sense?

OTTERCOMET
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Re: How to remove and reinstall your rear wheel

Post by OTTERCOMET » Tue Nov 06, 2018 6:11 pm

Thanks - my apologies for my confusion.
Think I was suffering from an optical illusion - the picture with the individual holding the gear in his hand appears to be a flat saucer - after reading your explanation and re-examining the photo I realized that the photo with the hand in it is an extreme close-up - the camera must have almost been inside the cylindrical spider gear opposite the surface that was being photographed.

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Re: How to remove and reinstall your rear wheel

Post by WingAdmin » Wed Nov 07, 2018 8:57 am

OTTERCOMET wrote:
Tue Nov 06, 2018 6:11 pm
Thanks - my apologies for my confusion.
Think I was suffering from an optical illusion - the picture with the individual holding the gear in his hand appears to be a flat saucer - after reading your explanation and re-examining the photo I realized that the photo with the hand in it is an extreme close-up - the camera must have almost been inside the cylindrical spider gear opposite the surface that was being photographed.
You got it, I was holding it close in order to show the Moly in the splines.

Incidentally, since the discontinuation of the original Honda Moly, and its replacement with the tiny tube of paste at more than twice the price, I no longer liberally slather so much paste on there...I make sure it's covered, but don't just put gobs of it on there like I used to (in order to make sure it was all covered). Much more careful now when the tiny tube of it is $15!!

OTTERCOMET
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Re: How to remove and reinstall your rear wheel

Post by OTTERCOMET » Wed Nov 07, 2018 11:50 am

Thanks
I am in Canada (Whitby Ont.) and Moly 60 is non existent and the Honda m77 is $18 for a 2.5 oz. bottle - When I apply it I'm going to look closely to see if it has gold flakes embedded!!!!

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Re: How to remove and reinstall your rear wheel

Post by OTTERCOMET » Wed Nov 07, 2018 12:04 pm

Further question - given the small quantity packaging, do you still use it on the splines that mate to the drive shaft in the swing arm or can u get away with heavy duty grease?

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Wilcoy02
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98 valkyrie sold 8/16

Re: How to remove and reinstall your rear wheel

Post by Wilcoy02 » Wed Nov 07, 2018 4:55 pm

Grease tends to fling off. It also turns liquid when it gets hot. Moly will not do either.

I apply Moly on all surfaces

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Re: How to remove and reinstall your rear wheel

Post by WingAdmin » Thu Nov 08, 2018 12:29 am

OTTERCOMET wrote:
Wed Nov 07, 2018 12:04 pm
Further question - given the small quantity packaging, do you still use it on the splines that mate to the drive shaft in the swing arm or can u get away with heavy duty grease?
Definitely. Any place you have splined drives interfacing with one another and not moving relative to one another (i.e. not meshing continually), but with a tiny bit of free play (which is required to prevent wear and binding), you need to have Moly to provide lubrication and prevent wear.

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Re: How to remove and reinstall your rear wheel

Post by OTTERCOMET » Thu Nov 08, 2018 8:27 am

Thanks for all the input.
The technicians at the cycle shop were I deal donated some of the lube they use when servicing the final drive and I picked up a 75 gram tube of M77 from a local Honda Car dealer who happens to have a sideline of power sport equipment - a car dealer selling motorcycles, ATVs, snow blowers and lawn mowers - a Honda one stop shop -neat idea.

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Wilcoy02
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Re: How to remove and reinstall your rear wheel

Post by Wilcoy02 » Thu Nov 08, 2018 10:30 am

When I am looking for Honda parts, grease, and things for the bike, I routinely check the Honda car dealer for parts etc.. They have some of the things that go both on cars and bikes with the same part #'s and usually cheaper.



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